How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016-2022 Toyota Prius
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment guidance for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016-2022 Toyota Prius
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment guidance for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
🔧 Prius - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
This procedure replaces one outer tie rod end, the steering joint connecting the tie rod to the steering knuckle. A worn joint can cause looseness, clunking, uneven tire wear, or poor steering control.
Assumption: “Tie rod end” refers to the outer tie rod end.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Support your Prius with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
- Do not loosen the tie rod while someone is turning the steering wheel.
- Do not strike the threaded stud. This can damage the threads or steering knuckle.
- Do not touch any orange high-voltage cables or connectors. This repair does not require hybrid-system service.
- The 12-volt battery does not need to be disconnected.
- A professional four-wheel alignment is required immediately after replacement.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 21mm six-point socket
- 17mm six-point socket
- 22mm open-end wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
- Outer tie rod separator (specialty)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Wire brush
- Paint marker
- Metric tape measure
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Nitrile mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front outer tie rod end for the affected side - Qty: 1
- Outer tie rod end retaining nut - Qty: 1
- New cotter pin - Qty: 1
- Penetrating oil - Qty: 1 can
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Prius on firm, level ground. Select Park, apply the parking brake, and switch the vehicle completely off.
- Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires.
- Keep the steering wheel centered before lifting the vehicle.
- Measure or count the old tie rod end’s installed position. This only keeps the alignment close enough for a careful trip to the alignment shop.
- No infotainment menu, scan-tool command, battery registration, or hybrid-system isolation is required.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Wheel Nuts
- Use the 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the affected front wheel nuts about one-half turn while the tire is still on the ground.
- Do not remove the wheel nuts yet.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Prius
- Use the floor jack at the approved front center jacking point to raise your Prius.
- Position jack stands beneath the reinforced front side support points, then lower the vehicle onto them.
- Confirm stability with a gentle push while keeping clear of the underside.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel
- Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to remove all five wheel nuts.
- Remove the wheel and place it flat away from the work area.
Step 4: Record the Tie Rod Position
- Use the wire brush to clean the exposed threads between the outer tie rod end and its lock nut.
- Apply penetrating oil to the lock nut and threaded stud.
- Use the paint marker to mark the tie rod threads at the edge of the old tie rod end.
- Use the metric tape measure to record the distance from the lock nut to a fixed point on the tie rod end.
- Count removal turns for a closer initial alignment.
Step 5: Loosen the Lock Nut
- The lock nut, also called a jam nut, holds the tie rod end at its alignment setting.
- Use the 22mm open-end wrench to loosen the lock nut approximately one-quarter turn.
- Do not move the lock nut farther along the inner tie rod.
Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin and Stud Nut
- Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
- Discard the old cotter pin. Never reuse it.
- Use the 17mm socket and ratchet to loosen the castellated nut, which is the slotted nut on the stud.
- Leave the nut threaded on by two or three turns while separating the joint.
Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End
- Position the outer tie rod separator between the tie rod end and steering knuckle.
- A tie rod separator is a small press that pushes the tapered stud out without striking it.
- Tighten the separator until the tapered stud releases from the knuckle.
- Use the 17mm socket and ratchet to remove the loosened stud nut completely.
- Lift the tie rod stud out of the steering knuckle.
Step 8: Remove the Old Tie Rod End
- Use the paint marker to add an index mark across the old tie rod end and inner tie rod.
- Turn the old tie rod end counterclockwise by hand while counting every complete turn.
- Record any final partial turn.
- Leave the 22mm lock nut in its original position.
Step 9: Install the New Tie Rod End
- Compare the new and old parts by hand. Confirm that the stud taper, thread direction, and overall length match.
- Thread the new tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand using exactly the same number of turns counted during removal.
- Stop when it reaches the paint mark or original measurement.
- Do not force the threads. If it will not turn easily, remove it and start again to prevent cross-threading.
Step 10: Attach the Stud to the Steering Knuckle
- Insert the new tie rod end stud fully into the steering knuckle by hand.
- Install the supplied retaining nut by hand.
- Use the 17mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the stud nut to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
- If the cotter-pin holes do not align, use the 17mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the nut slightly farther until the next slot aligns. Do not loosen the nut to align it.
- Use needle-nose pliers to install and bend the new cotter pin securely around the nut.
Step 11: Tighten the Tie Rod Lock Nut
- Hold the new tie rod end steady by hand so it cannot rotate.
- Use the 22mm open-end wrench to seat the lock nut firmly against the new tie rod end.
- Torque target: 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs). If the torque wrench cannot accept the required wrench adapter, have the lock nut verified during the immediate alignment service.
Step 12: Reinstall the Wheel
- Install the wheel and start all five wheel nuts by hand.
- Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
- Use the floor jack to raise your Prius slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Use the 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Switch your Prius on and turn the steering wheel slowly from side to side while parked. Listen for binding, popping, or scraping.
- Verify that the steering wheel remains reasonably centered and the tire does not visibly point inward or outward.
- Drive slowly only as needed to reach an alignment facility. Avoid highways and abrupt steering.
- Have a professional four-wheel alignment completed immediately. Counting turns is not an alignment.
- After 80-160 km, use the 21mm socket and torque wrench to recheck wheel-nut torque at 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹4,500-₹9,000 per side, including the part, labor, and alignment
DIY Cost: ₹1,500-₹4,000 for the part and required alignment
You Save: ₹2,000-₹5,000 by doing it yourself!
Labor rates around Sonīpat vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours, followed by wheel alignment.
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