🔧 Fit - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This procedure replaces one outer tie rod end, the steering joint connecting the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. A worn joint can cause steering looseness, clunking, uneven tire wear, or failed wheel alignment.

Assumption: “Tie rod end” means the outer tie rod end.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-1.5 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Fit with jack stands; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses because the joint may release suddenly from the steering knuckle.
• ⚠️ Do not strike the threaded stud with a hammer; this can damage the threads and steering knuckle.
• ⚠️ Do not drive far before obtaining a professional four-wheel alignment.
• ⚠️ Replace the cotter pin with a new one; never reuse the old pin.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnection is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 19mm deep socket
• 17mm deep socket
• 19mm combination wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
• Outer tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Tape measure marked in millimeters
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Mechanic’s gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
• Tie rod end cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
• Tie rod end castellated nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Penetrating oil - Qty: 1 can

Replacing both sides as a pair is recommended when both joints have similar age or wear.

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Fit on firm, level ground with the steering wheel centered.
• Apply the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
• Arrange a professional four-wheel alignment immediately after the repair.
• Use a paint marker and turn count to preserve the approximate toe setting. “Toe” describes whether the fronts of the tires point inward or outward.
• No infotainment setting, scan tool, steering calibration, or battery disconnection is required.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Wheel Nuts

• Use a 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the five front wheel nuts about one-half turn.
• Do not remove the nuts while the tire is supporting the vehicle.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front Corner

• Position the 2-ton floor jack under the specified front jacking point and raise your Fit.
• Place a 2-ton jack stand under the reinforced side support point.
• Lower the vehicle onto the stand, then gently push the body to verify that it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the wheel nuts.
• Remove the wheel and slide it under the side sill as an additional precaution.

Step 4: Clean and Mark the Existing Position

• Use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads, locknut, and castellated nut.
• Apply penetrating oil to the locknut and castellated nut. Allow it to soak for several minutes.
• Use a paint marker to draw a reference line across the inner tie rod threads, locknut, and outer tie rod end.
• Use a tape measure to record the exposed thread length between the locknut and the end of the threads.
• The locknut is also called a jam nut; it prevents the outer end from rotating on the inner tie rod.

Step 5: Loosen the Tie Rod Locknut

• Use a 19mm combination wrench to loosen the locknut approximately one-quarter turn.
• Turn only the locknut. Do not rotate the tie rod end yet.
• Loosen this nut before separating the joint.

Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin and Nut

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod stud.
• Discard the old cotter pin.
• Use a 17mm deep socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen the castellated nut. A castellated nut has slots that capture the cotter pin.
• Leave the nut threaded onto the stud by two or three turns while separating the joint.

Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End

• Fit the outer tie rod end puller over the steering knuckle and stud.
• Tighten the puller with the appropriate 17mm deep socket and 3/8-inch ratchet until the tapered stud releases.
• Remove the puller, then use the 17mm deep socket and ratchet to remove the castellated nut completely.
• Lift the tie rod stud out of the steering knuckle.

Step 8: Remove the Old Tie Rod End

• Use a paint marker to place a starting mark on the old tie rod end.
• Rotate the tie rod end counterclockwise by hand and count every complete turn until it comes off.
• Record the exact number of turns, including any partial turn.
• Do not move the locknut from its marked position.

Step 9: Install the New Tie Rod End

• Compare the new and old parts before installation. The stud position, thread direction, and overall length must match.
• Thread the new tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand using exactly the same number of turns counted during removal.
• Align it with the steering knuckle and confirm the measured exposed thread length is close to the original measurement.
• Do not use a wrench if the new end will not thread smoothly by hand; cross-threading requires replacement of the damaged component.

Step 10: Connect the New Tie Rod End

• Insert the new tapered stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the supplied castellated nut by hand.
• Use a 17mm deep socket and torque wrench to tighten the nut to 43 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter-pin holes do not align, tighten the nut only enough to reach the next slot. Never loosen the nut to align it.
• Use needle-nose pliers to install and bend the new cotter pin securely around the nut.

Step 11: Tighten the Locknut

• Hold the new tie rod end in its installed position.
• Use a 19mm combination wrench and torque wrench arrangement to tighten the locknut to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Confirm the paint marks and measured thread length have not shifted significantly.

Step 12: Reinstall the Wheel

• Install the wheel and start all five wheel nuts by hand.
• Use the 19mm deep socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
• Use the 2-ton floor jack to raise your Fit slightly, remove the jack stand, and lower the tire to the ground.
• Use the 19mm deep socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start your Fit and slowly turn the steering wheel left and right. Listen for binding or unusual noises.
• ✅ Verify that the steering wheel is reasonably centered and both front tires point straight ahead.
• ✅ Drive slowly in a safe area. Stop immediately if the steering pulls sharply, feels loose, or the wheel is severely off-center.
• ✅ Obtain a professional four-wheel alignment before normal driving. Matching the old turn count is only a temporary approximation.
• ✅ After 80-160 km, inspect the cotter pin and verify the wheel-nut torque remains 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹4,500-₹9,000 per side, including the part, labor, and alignment

DIY Cost: ₹1,500-₹4,000 per side for parts, plus ₹800-₹1,500 for alignment

You Save: Approximately ₹2,000-₹4,500 by doing it yourself!

Local labor rates vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hour per side, plus alignment time.

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