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2018 Honda Ridgeline
2017 - 2025 Honda Ridgeline
V6 3.5L

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2017-2023 Honda Ridgeline Rear Brake Rotor Pads Replacement

2017-2023 Honda Ridgeline Rear Brake Rotor Pads Replacement

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
22mm
22mm
Deep Socket
or (7/8")
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2017-2025 Honda Ridgeline (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2017-2025 Honda Ridgeline (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025

Orion
Orion

🔧 Ridgeline - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads involves removing both rear wheels, opening each brake caliper, compressing the caliper piston, and installing new pads and hardware. Your Ridgeline uses a foot-operated parking brake, so no electronic parking-brake service mode or scan tool is required.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and support your Ridgeline with jack stands. Never rely only on a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing the rear calipers.
  • ⚠️ Chock both front wheels because the parking brake must remain released.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Never allow a caliper to hang from its rubber brake hose.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust may be harmful. Do not blow it away with compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnection is not required.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 3-ton floor jack
  • 3-ton jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 22mm deep socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 17mm open-end wrench
  • 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 30-150 ft-lbs
  • Disc brake piston compression tool (specialty)
  • Small flat-blade screwdriver
  • Nylon brake cleaning brush
  • Brake caliper hanger (specialty)
  • Plastic drain pan
  • Clean shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1 set
  • Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1 can
  • High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1 tube
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small sealed bottle, only if adjustment is needed

📋 Before You Begin

  • 📍 Park your Ridgeline on level, paved ground. Shift into Park and switch off the engine.
  • 🧱 Release the foot-operated parking brake completely, then place wheel chocks tightly against both sides of the front tires.
  • 🌡️ Allow the brakes to cool fully before touching them.
  • 🛞 Replace pads on both rear wheels so braking remains balanced.
  • 🔍 Look through the brake-fluid reservoir. If the fluid is near the MAX line, place clean shop towels around the reservoir because compressing the pistons may raise the fluid level.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts

  • Use a 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-half turn.
  • Do not remove the wheel nuts while your Ridgeline is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear

  • Use the 3-ton floor jack at the rear center lifting point to raise your Ridgeline.
  • Place the 3-ton jack stands beneath the specified rear side support points, then lower the vehicle gently onto them.
  • Lightly shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable before working underneath or beside it.

Step 3: Remove Both Rear Wheels

  • Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the wheel nuts.
  • Lift off both rear wheels and place them flat away from the work area.

Step 4: Inspect the Brakes

  • Use a plastic drain pan beneath the brake assembly to catch cleaner and debris.
  • Inspect the rotor for deep grooves, cracks, heavy rust, or blue heat spots.
  • Check the caliper and rubber brake hose for wetness that could indicate a brake-fluid leak.
  • Compare the inner and outer pad wear. Strongly uneven wear can indicate seized slide pins or a sticking caliper.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Bolt

  • Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide-pin bolt.
  • If the slide pin turns with the bolt, hold its flat section with a 17mm open-end wrench.
  • The slide pin allows the caliper to move sideways and apply both brake pads evenly.

Step 6: Swing Up and Support the Caliper

  • Pivot the caliper upward around its upper slide pin.
  • If clearance is limited, remove the upper bolt with the 12mm socket and lift the caliper away.
  • Support the caliper with a brake caliper hanger. Do not stretch or twist the brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware

  • Slide the inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to carefully lift the stainless-steel pad clips from the bracket.
  • Note the position of the wear indicator before discarding the old pads. Install the replacement pad in the same orientation.

Step 8: Clean the Pad Contact Areas

  • Spray brake parts cleaner onto the bracket and clean the pad-contact surfaces with a nylon brake cleaning brush.
  • Catch runoff in the plastic drain pan and wipe remaining residue with clean shop towels.
  • Do not apply lubricant to the rotor or the friction surface of the pads.

Step 9: Inspect and Lubricate the Slide Pins

  • Pull each slide pin from its rubber boot by hand, one at a time.
  • Wipe the pin clean with clean shop towels and inspect it for rust, pitting, or binding.
  • Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant, then reinstall the pin without twisting the rubber boot.
  • Service one pin at a time.

Step 10: Install the New Hardware and Pads

  • Press the new stainless-steel hardware clips fully into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Apply a very thin film of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant where the pad tabs touch the hardware.
  • Install the new inner and outer pads in the same orientation as the old pads.
  • Confirm that both pads slide freely in the bracket without excessive looseness.

Step 11: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Place an old brake pad against the piston, then use the disc brake piston compression tool to push the piston slowly and straight into the caliper.
  • This piston presses straight inward; it does not need to be rotated.
  • Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Remove excess fluid with an appropriate clean fluid extractor if it approaches the top.
  • Stop if the piston will not move smoothly. Do not force a seized piston.

Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads, ensuring neither slide-pin boot becomes pinched.
  • Start the slide-pin bolt by hand to prevent cross-threading.
  • Hold the slide pin with the 17mm open-end wrench if needed, then tighten the bolt using the 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench.
  • Torque the rear caliper slide-pin bolt to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Use the same tools and procedure to replace the rear pads on the opposite side.
  • Confirm that both calipers are secure and both brake hoses follow their natural, untwisted routing.

Step 14: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
  • Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
  • Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise your Ridgeline slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it completely.
  • Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern.
  • Torque the wheel nuts to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Restore Brake-Pedal Pressure

  • With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
  • Do not move your Ridgeline until the pedal is firm and consistent.
  • Check the reservoir and adjust with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid only if the level is below the marked range.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start the engine and hold firm pressure on the brake pedal for 30 seconds. The pedal should not continue sinking.
  • 🔍 Check around both rear calipers for brake-fluid leaks.
  • 🛑 Apply and release the foot-operated parking brake to confirm normal operation.
  • 🚗 Test the brakes at walking speed in a safe, traffic-free area before normal driving.
  • 🔥 Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 15 km/h. Allow about 30 seconds between stops and avoid coming to a complete stop with very hot brakes.
  • 🧊 Drive for several minutes afterward without heavy braking so the brakes can cool.
  • 🔧 Recheck the wheel-nut torque after approximately 80-160 km.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹8,000-₹16,000 including parts and labor

DIY Cost: ₹3,500-₹8,000 for parts only

You Save: ₹4,500-₹8,000 by doing it yourself!

Local labor rates and imported part prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.


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