🔧 Impala - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads involves removing both rear calipers, compressing the caliper pistons, and installing new pads and hardware. Your Impala uses an electric parking brake, so it must remain fully released throughout the repair.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

Assumption: This procedure applies to the stock rear brake system.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and support your Impala with jack stands—never rely on the floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the electric parking brake before lifting the vehicle. Do not operate its switch while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Chock both front wheels because the parking brake must remain released.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while either rear caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Suspend each caliper with a hanger. Never let it hang from its rubber brake hose.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not use compressed air to clean the brakes.
• ⚠️ If brake fluid spills, rinse it away immediately because it damages paint.
• 🔋 Battery disconnection is not normally required.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 13mm socket
• 17mm open-end wrench
• 22mm deep socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
• Rear disc brake piston compression tool (specialty)
• Small flat-blade screwdriver
• Nylon brake cleaning brush
• Brake caliper hanger set (specialty)
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Rubber wheel chocks
• Brake fluid syringe (specialty)
• Disposable nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Aerosol brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 container, only if needed

Replace the rear brake pads in pairs on both sides. Replace the rear rotors as a pair if they are below specification, deeply scored, cracked, or heat-damaged.

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Impala on level pavement, shift into Park, switch off the engine, and release the electric parking brake completely.
• 🧱 Place rubber wheel chocks firmly in front of and behind both front tires.
• 🔍 Open the hood and locate the brake-fluid reservoir. Clean around its cap before opening it.
• 🧪 Check the fluid level. If it is at the MAX line, use a brake fluid syringe to remove a small amount so it will not overflow when the pistons are compressed.
• 🛑 Leave the electric parking brake released. This cable-operated system does not normally require a scan-tool service mode for pad replacement.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts

• Use a 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-quarter turn.
• Do not remove the nuts while your Impala is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear

• Use the 2-ton floor jack at the specified rear lifting point and raise your Impala.
• Position the 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced rear support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands, then give it a light stability check.
• Keep the floor jack nearby as backup support.

Step 3: Remove Both Rear Wheels

• Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the loosened wheel nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and place them flat away from the work area.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly

• Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Use aerosol brake cleaner and the nylon brake cleaning brush to remove loose dirt without creating airborne dust.
• Inspect the caliper, rubber brake hose, parking-brake cable, and rotor for leakage or damage.
• Compare the inner and outer pad wear. Large differences can indicate a seized guide pin or sticking caliper.

Step 5: Remove the Rear Caliper

• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
• If a guide pin turns with its bolt, hold the guide pin with a 17mm open-end wrench while loosening the bolt with the 13mm socket.
• Lift the caliper away from the rotor carefully.
• Use a brake caliper hanger to suspend it from the suspension. Do not twist or stretch the brake hose or parking-brake cable.

Step 6: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to lift the old stainless-steel pad clips from the bracket.
• Notice the position of each pad, wear indicator, and clip before removal.
• Do not remove the caliper bracket unless the rotor is also being replaced.

Step 7: Check the Guide Pins

• Move each guide pin by hand. It should slide smoothly without binding.
• Pull out a sticking guide pin carefully, wipe it clean, and inspect its rubber boot for tears.
• Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant to the smooth guide-pin surface only.
• Do not put petroleum grease on rubber brake components.

Step 8: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use the rear disc brake piston compression tool to press the piston slowly and evenly into the caliper bore.
• This compression tool applies controlled pressure without damaging the piston.
• Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Use the brake fluid syringe if the level approaches the top.
• Stop if the piston will not retract with moderate force. A seized caliper or applied parking brake must be corrected before continuing.

Step 9: Install New Hardware and Pads

• Use aerosol brake cleaner and the nylon brake cleaning brush to clean the pad-contact ledges on the bracket.
• Press the new rear brake pad hardware clips fully into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a very thin layer of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant where the pad ears touch the clips.
• Keep all lubricant away from the pad friction material and rotor surfaces.
• Install the new inner and outer pads in the same orientation as the originals.
• The pads should slide without excessive force.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose or parking-brake cable.
• Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent crossed threads.
• Hold the guide pin with the 17mm open-end wrench if needed, then tighten each bolt using the 13mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque the rear caliper guide-pin bolts to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Repeat on the Opposite Side

• Use the same listed tools and repeat Steps 4 through 10 on the other rear brake assembly.
• Confirm both calipers are secure and both parking-brake cables remain correctly routed.

Step 12: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Install both wheels and start every wheel nut by hand.
• Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the nuts in a crossing pattern.
• Use the 2-ton floor jack to raise your Impala slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.
• Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the nuts in a crossing pattern.
• Torque the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Restore Brake-Pedal Pressure

• With the engine off, press and release the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
• Do not move your Impala until the pedal is firm.
• Check the brake-fluid reservoir and adjust to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Install the reservoir cap securely by hand.

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and hold firm pressure on the brake pedal. The pedal must remain firm and must not sink toward the floor.
• 🅿️ Apply and release the electric parking brake once. Confirm the warning light behaves normally.
• 🔍 Inspect both rear calipers and the brake-fluid reservoir for leaks.
• 🚗 Test the brakes at walking speed in a safe, traffic-free area before normal driving.
• 🛑 Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 10 km/h, allowing brief cooling between stops. Avoid coming to a complete stop with very hot brakes.
• 🌡️ Drive gently for the first 300-500 km and avoid unnecessary hard braking while the pads seat against the rotors.
• 🔧 Recheck wheel-nut torque after approximately 80-160 km.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$130 (parts only)

You Save: $120-$320 by doing it yourself!

Local labor rates vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.