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2011 Ford Explorer
2011 - 2019 Ford Explorer
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How to Replace Rear Brakes 2011-2019 Ford Explorer

How to Replace Rear Brakes 2011-2019 Ford Explorer

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Deep Socket
or (23/32")
11mm
11mm
Socket
or (13/32")
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2011-2019 Ford Explorer (Trim: XLT)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2011-2019 Ford Explorer (Trim: XLT)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your Explorer involves removing both rear calipers, compressing their pistons, and installing new pads and hardware. The parking brake uses a separate drum-style mechanism, so the caliper pistons press straight inward without being rotated.

Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and support your Explorer with jack stands. Never rely only on a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing the rear calipers. Secure the front wheels with wheel chocks.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not use compressed air or inhale the dust.
  • ⚠️ Never press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Do not allow a caliper to hang from its rubber brake hose.
  • ⚠️ Brake fluid damages paint. Clean spills immediately and keep the reservoir from overflowing.
  • Battery disconnection is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 2-ton floor jack
  • 2-ton jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm deep socket
  • 11mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 30-150 ft-lbs
  • Disc brake piston compression tool (specialty)
  • Small flat-blade screwdriver
  • Nylon brake-cleaning brush
  • Brake fluid syringe
  • Caliper hanger
  • Nitrile mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle if needed

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Explorer on level, solid ground and place the transmission in Park.
  • Switch off the engine, remove the key, and release the parking brake completely.
  • Place wheel chocks tightly against both sides of one front tire.
  • Let the brakes cool completely before working.
  • Check the brake-fluid level under the hood. If it is at the MAX line, use a brake fluid syringe to remove a small amount before compressing the pistons.
  • No infotainment setting, scan tool, electronic parking-brake service mode, or battery disconnect is required.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the rear wheel nuts

  • Use a 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-half turn.
  • Do not remove the nuts while your Explorer is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and support the rear

  • Position the 2-ton floor jack beneath the reinforced rear lifting point and raise one side at a time.
  • Place 2-ton jack stands beneath the marked rear pinch-weld support points.
  • Lower your Explorer gently onto the stands, then give it a careful stability check.
  • Keep the floor jack nearby as backup support.

Step 3: Remove both rear wheels

  • Use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the wheel nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and place them flat away from the work area.

Step 4: Inspect the brakes

  • Use a flashlight and inspect both rear rotors for deep grooves, blue heat spots, cracks, or heavy rust.
  • Check the rubber brake hoses for cracks, wetness, or bulges.
  • Compare inner and outer pad wear. A large difference may indicate a seized slide pin or caliper.
  • Replace or machine the rotors if they are damaged or below the minimum thickness stamped on each rotor.

Step 5: Remove the first rear caliper

  • Use an 11mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
  • A guide pin allows the caliper to slide sideways as the brakes apply.
  • Lift the caliper from the bracket. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver only if gentle assistance is needed.
  • Support the caliper with a caliper hanger. Do not twist or stretch its brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the old pads and hardware

  • Pull the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the stainless-steel pad clips from the bracket.
  • Note the position of any wear indicator before discarding the old pads.

Step 7: Clean and lubricate the bracket

  • Spray non-chlorinated brake cleaner onto the bracket and use a nylon brake-cleaning brush to remove brake dust and rust from the clip seating areas.
  • Install the new rear brake pad hardware by hand. Make sure every clip sits completely flat.
  • Apply a very thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant where the pad tabs contact the hardware.
  • Do not put lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor surface.

Step 8: Check the caliper guide pins

  • Pull each guide pin from its rubber boot by hand and confirm that it moves smoothly.
  • Wipe the pins clean and apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant.
  • Reinsert each pin by hand without tearing or twisting its rubber boot.
  • Replace the caliper or damaged guide-pin components if a pin is rusted, seized, or loose.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

  • Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
  • Use the disc brake piston compression tool to press the piston slowly and straight into the caliper bore.
  • Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Use the brake fluid syringe if the level approaches the top.
  • Stop if the piston binds, tilts, or requires excessive force. Do not rotate the piston.
  • Compress slowly to avoid damaging the hydraulic seals.

Step 10: Install the new pads

  • Fit the new inner and outer pads into the hardware by hand.
  • Make sure the pad tabs slide freely without excessive looseness.
  • If equipped, place the pad with the wear indicator in the same position as the original pad.
  • Keep all friction surfaces clean and dry.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

  • Place the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
  • Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent crossed threads.
  • Use an 11mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten both guide-pin bolts to 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs).
  • Confirm that both guide-pin boots are seated and undamaged.

Step 12: Repeat on the opposite side

  • Use the same tools and procedure to replace the pads and hardware on the other rear wheel.
  • Always replace rear brake pads as a complete axle set.

Step 13: Reinstall the rear wheels

  • Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
  • Use a 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to snug the nuts in a star pattern while the wheels are raised.
  • Use the 2-ton floor jack to lift your Explorer slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.
  • Use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Restore brake pressure

  • Before starting the engine, press and release the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
  • Do not move your Explorer until the pedal is firm and holds steady.
  • Check the reservoir and add fresh DOT 3 brake fluid only if the level is below the correct range.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and hold firm pressure on the brake pedal for 30 seconds. The pedal should not slowly sink.
  • Inspect both rear calipers and hoses for brake-fluid leaks.
  • Apply and release the parking brake to confirm normal operation.
  • Drive slowly in a safe area and verify that your Explorer stops straight without scraping, pulling, or warning lights.
  • Bed in the pads with approximately 8-10 moderate stops from 50 km/h to 15 km/h. Allow about 30 seconds of cooling between stops.
  • Avoid emergency stops and holding the brake pedal firmly while stationary immediately after bedding.
  • Recheck wheel-nut torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) after approximately 80-160 km.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹7,000-₹15,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹3,500-₹8,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹3,500-₹7,000 by doing it yourself!

Local labor and imported-parts prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.


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