How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2010-2020 Nissan Murano (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2010-2020 Nissan Murano (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Murano - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
Replacing the rear brake pads requires servicing both rear wheels, cleaning the calipers, and carefully pressing the caliper pistons back into their bores. Your Murano uses a mechanically operated parking brake, so no scan-tool retraction or infotainment service mode is required.
Difficulty Level: Beginner–Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5–2.5 hours
Assumption: The original rear calipers and brake system remain installed.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on level, solid ground and chock both front wheels.
- Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
- Release the parking brake before removing the rear calipers.
- Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it away with compressed air.
- Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
- Do not allow a caliper to hang from its flexible brake hose.
- Brake fluid damages paint. Clean spills immediately.
- Battery disconnection is not required.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile mechanic’s gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- 21mm deep socket
- 14mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated 10–80 ft-lbs
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20–150 ft-lbs
- 6-inch C-clamp or disc-brake piston compressor
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Brake hardware wire brush
- 0–25mm brake rotor micrometer
- Drain pan
- Bungee cord rated 25 pounds minimum
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set with shims - Qty: 1 set — replace both rear wheels
- Rear brake pad abutment clip set - Qty: 1 set
- High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1 tube
- Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle, only if fluid correction is needed
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Murano on level pavement, shift into Park, and switch off the ignition.
- Release the foot-operated parking brake completely.
- Place wheel chocks firmly against the front and rear of both front tires.
- Open the hood and check the brake-fluid reservoir. If it is near the MAX line, monitor it closely while compressing the pistons.
- A caliper is the clamp-shaped brake component surrounding the rotor.
- An abutment clip is the small stainless-steel clip on which each brake pad slides.
- Complete one rear wheel at a time so the assembled side remains available as a reference.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts
- Use a 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-quarter turn.
- Do not remove the wheel nuts while the tire is still supporting the vehicle.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear
- Position the floor jack beneath the specified rear lifting point and raise your Murano.
- Place jack stands beneath the reinforced rear side support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands and confirm it is stable.
- Give the body a gentle stability check.
Step 3: Remove the First Rear Wheel
- Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the loosened wheel nuts.
- Remove the wheel and slide it beneath the side of the vehicle as an additional precaution.
Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly
- Use the brake rotor micrometer to measure rotor thickness at several points, away from the outer rust ridge.
- Replace or professionally machine the rotor if it is below the minimum thickness stamped on the rotor, deeply scored, cracked, or badly rusted.
- Check the caliper, hose, and piston area for wet brake-fluid leakage. Stop the repair if leakage is present.
Step 5: Remove the Rear Caliper
- Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper sliding-pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper away from the pads and rotor.
- Use the 25-pound bungee cord to support the caliper from the suspension.
- Do not twist, stretch, or kink the flexible brake hose.
Step 6: Remove the Old Pads and Clips
- Pull the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
- Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to carefully lift out the old abutment clips.
- Note the position of the wear indicator before removing the old pads, and install the new indicator-equipped pad in the same position.
Step 7: Clean the Caliper Bracket
- Position the drain pan underneath the brake assembly.
- Apply non-chlorinated brake cleaner and use the brake hardware wire brush to clean the pad-contact surfaces.
- Do not grind away bracket metal. Remove only rust and brake residue.
- Install the new abutment clips by hand, using the small flat-blade screwdriver only if gentle seating assistance is needed.
Step 8: Check the Sliding Pins
- Move each caliper sliding pin in and out by hand. It should move smoothly without binding.
- If a pin is dry, remove it by hand, wipe it clean, and apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant.
- Reinstall the pin into its original location and make sure its rubber boot seats completely.
- Do not use petroleum grease on rubber brake components.
Step 9: Compress the Caliper Piston
- Place one old brake pad against the piston face.
- Use the 6-inch C-clamp or disc-brake piston compressor to press the piston slowly and straight into the caliper.
- Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Stop if fluid approaches the top.
- The piston presses straight inward; do not attempt to rotate it.
- Check that the rubber piston boot folds inward cleanly and is not torn or pinched.
Step 10: Install the New Brake Pads
- Apply a very thin film of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the abutment clips.
- Keep lubricant off the rotor and all friction material.
- Install the inner and outer pads by hand in the same orientation as the removed pads.
- Confirm both pads slide freely in the bracket without excessive looseness.
Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper
- Lower the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
- Start both sliding-pin bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the sliding-pin bolts to 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Service the Opposite Rear Brake
- Repeat Steps 3 through 11 on the opposite rear wheel using the same listed tools.
- Always replace rear brake pads as a complete axle set.
Step 13: Reinstall the Rear Wheels
- Install each wheel and start every wheel nut by hand.
- Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to snug the nuts in a crossing pattern.
- Use the floor jack to raise your Murano slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it completely.
- Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crossing pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Seat the Brake Pads
- Before moving the vehicle, press and release the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
- Check the DOT 3 brake-fluid level and keep it between MIN and MAX. Do not overfill it.
- Apply and release the foot-operated parking brake to verify normal operation.
✅ After Repair
- Start your Murano and verify that the red brake warning lamp turns off after releasing the parking brake.
- With the vehicle stationary, hold firm pedal pressure for 30 seconds. The pedal should not slowly sink.
- Perform a low-speed brake test in a clear area before entering traffic.
- Follow the brake-pad manufacturer’s break-in instructions. If none are supplied, make several moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 15 km/h, allowing cooling time between stops.
- Avoid hard braking and holding the brake pedal while stopped immediately after bedding the pads.
- After the road test, check for unusual heat, noise, pulling, fluid leakage, or a burning smell.
- Recheck wheel-nut torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) after approximately 80–160 km.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹9,000–₹18,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹3,500–₹9,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹5,500–₹9,000 by doing it yourself!
Local labor and imported-part prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1–1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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