🔧 CR-V - Rear Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces both rear brake pad sets and both rear rotors on your CR-V. Because it uses an electronic parking brake, the rear calipers must first be placed in maintenance mode with a compatible scan tool.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

Assumption: The rear calipers and electronic parking brake actuators are working normally.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Use a scan tool to enter electronic parking brake maintenance mode before compressing either caliper piston.
• ⚠️ Never work beneath your CR-V while it is supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Replace the rear pads and rotors on both sides to maintain balanced braking.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Support each caliper with a hanger; never let it hang from its brake hose.
• ⚠️ Brake dust may be harmful. Do not use compressed air to clean it.
• ⚠️ Keep grease and brake cleaner away from pad friction material and rotor braking surfaces.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnection is not required. Stable battery voltage is important while operating the electronic parking brake.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Vehicle-compatible bidirectional scan tool with Honda EPB service function (specialty)
• 12V battery maintainer rated 5-10 amps
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated 7-75 ft-lbs
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 19mm deep socket
• 17mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 17mm combination wrench
• 12mm combination wrench
• No. 3 JIS impact screwdriver (specialty)
• M8 x 1.25 rotor removal bolts, 30mm minimum length
• 6-inch C-clamp or disc-brake piston compressor
• Small flat-blade screwdriver
• Nylon brake-cleaning brush
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Rear caliper hangers
• Plastic drain pan
• Disposable shop towels
• Nitrile mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses
• NIOSH-approved P100 dust mask

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2; replace in pairs
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1 kit
• Silicone-based brake lubricant - Qty: 1 tube
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small sealed bottle, only if topping up is required

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 📍 Park your CR-V on firm, level ground and place the transmission in Park.
• 🔋 Connect the 12V battery maintainer with the ignition off. A battery maintainer holds steady voltage while the scan tool operates the parking brake.
• 🛑 Release the electronic parking brake completely.
• 🔍 Check the brake-fluid reservoir. If it is at the MAX line, remove a small amount before compressing the pistons so it does not overflow.
• 📱 Connect the scan tool to the diagnostic connector below the driver-side dashboard.
• 💻 Select Honda > CR-V > ABS/VSA > Electronic Parking Brake > Maintenance Mode > Enter. Follow the scan-tool prompts until both rear actuators fully retract.
• 🚫 Leave the parking brake released after entering maintenance mode. Switch the ignition off unless the scan tool directs otherwise.
• 🧱 Chock both front wheels securely. Do not apply the parking brake during this repair.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts

• Use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-half turn.
• Do not remove the nuts while your CR-V is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear

• Use the 2-ton floor jack at the specified rear-center lifting point under the rear subframe.
• Place the 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced rear side support points.
• Lower your CR-V gently onto the stands, then push it lightly to verify that it is stable.

Step 3: Remove Both Rear Wheels

• Use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and place them flat away from the work area.

Step 4: Remove the First Rear Caliper

• Work on one side at a time so the assembled side remains a reference.
• Use the 12mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
• If a guide pin turns, hold it with the 17mm combination wrench while loosening the bolt with the 12mm socket.
• Lift the caliper away from the pads and support it with a rear caliper hanger.
• Do not pull, twist, or stretch the brake hose or electronic parking-brake wiring.

Step 5: Remove the Pads and Caliper Bracket

• Pull the inner and outer brake pads out by hand.
• Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the stainless pad clips from the bracket.
• Use the 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove both caliper-bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and place it in the plastic drain pan.

Step 6: Remove the Old Rotor

• Use the No. 3 JIS impact screwdriver to remove the rotor retaining screws. JIS is the Japanese-style cross-head driver that fits these screws better than a Phillips driver.
• If the rotor is stuck, thread the two M8 x 1.25 rotor removal bolts evenly into the rotor’s extraction holes.
• Use the 12mm combination wrench to alternate between the two removal bolts until the rotor releases.
• Remove the old rotor from the hub.
• Tighten extraction bolts evenly to prevent binding.

Step 7: Clean and Inspect the Components

• Wear the P100 dust mask, safety glasses, and nitrile gloves.
• Use brake cleaner, the nylon brake-cleaning brush, and shop towels to clean the hub face and caliper bracket.
• Pull each guide pin out by hand and inspect its rubber boot. The pin must move smoothly and must not be rusty or bent.
• Apply a thin coating of silicone-based brake lubricant to each guide pin with a gloved finger, then reinstall it into the correct original position.
• Do not apply lubricant to the hub face, wheel studs, pad friction surfaces, or rotor faces.

Step 8: Install the New Rotor

• Use brake cleaner and shop towels to clean both braking surfaces of the new rotor.
• Fit the rotor over the wheel studs and align the retaining-screw holes.
• Install the retaining screws with the No. 3 JIS impact screwdriver, then use the 3/8-inch torque wrench with the appropriate JIS bit adapter to torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).
• Do not overtighten the small retaining screws.

Step 9: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor and start both bolts by hand.
• Use the 17mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to torque the caliper-bracket bolts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
• Install the new stainless pad clips by hand. Confirm they sit fully against the bracket.
• Apply a very thin layer of silicone-based brake lubricant to the pad-contact ledges using a gloved finger.

Step 10: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Confirm the scan tool successfully placed the electronic parking brake in maintenance mode.
• Place an old brake pad across the piston face.
• Use the 6-inch C-clamp or disc-brake piston compressor to push the piston slowly and straight into the caliper.
• Do not rotate the piston and do not force it. Stop if it will not move smoothly.
• Watch the brake-fluid reservoir and remove excess fluid with clean shop towels if it approaches the top.

Step 11: Install the New Brake Pads

• Identify the inner and outer pads by comparing their tabs and backing plates with the removed pads.
• Slide both new pads into the bracket by hand with the friction material facing the rotor.
• Confirm the pads move freely in the clips without excessive looseness.
• Lower the supported caliper over the pads without twisting its hose.

Step 12: Tighten the Caliper Bolts

• Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Hold a turning guide pin with the 17mm combination wrench.
• Use the 12mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to torque the caliper guide-pin bolts to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
• Check that the brake hose and electronic parking-brake wiring follow their original routing.

Step 13: Repeat on the Opposite Side

• Use the same listed tools and repeat Steps 4 through 12 on the other rear wheel.
• Verify that both caliper-bracket bolts and all four guide-pin bolts were tightened to specification.

Step 14: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
• Use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to tighten the nuts lightly in a crisscross pattern.
• Use the floor jack to lift your CR-V, remove the jack stands, and lower it until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Exit Parking-Brake Maintenance Mode

• Connect or awaken the vehicle-compatible scan tool with the battery maintainer still attached.
• Switch the ignition on without starting the engine.
• Select Honda > CR-V > ABS/VSA > Electronic Parking Brake > Maintenance Mode > Exit.
• Follow the scan-tool prompts until both actuators apply and release normally.
• Use the electronic parking-brake switch to apply and release the parking brake once.

---

✅ After Repair

• 🦶 With the transmission in Park, press the brake pedal repeatedly until it becomes firm. Do not move your CR-V until the pedal is firm.
• 🧪 Check the brake-fluid level and top up only with fresh DOT 3 fluid if it is below the proper mark.
• 🔍 Inspect both rear calipers for leaks, loose wiring, twisted hoses, or unusual contact.
• 💻 Use the scan tool to check the ABS/VSA and electronic parking-brake systems for fault codes. Clear only codes caused during the repair.
• 🛑 Test the electronic parking brake on level ground before driving.
• 🚗 Make a slow test drive in a safe area. Confirm normal pedal feel, quiet operation, and straight braking.
• 🔥 Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 15 km/h. Avoid coming to a complete stop between applications, then drive several minutes to cool the brakes.
• ⚠️ Avoid hard braking and holding the brake pedal after a hard stop for the first 300 km unless required for safety.
• 🔧 Recheck wheel-nut torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) after approximately 80-160 km.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹24,000-₹42,000 including parts and labor

DIY Cost: ₹10,000-₹22,000 for pads, rotors, hardware, and consumables

You Save: ₹12,000-₹22,000 by doing it yourself!

Sonīpat-area labor rates and imported US-spec parts availability vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

---