How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2018 Toyota Avalon (Trim: Limited | Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2018 Toyota Avalon (Trim: Limited | Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Avalon - Rear Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement
Your Avalon uses rear disc brakes with a small drum-style parking brake inside each rear rotor. This repair replaces both rear rotors and both sets of rear pads so braking remains even from side to side.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and support your Avalon with jack stands. Never rely on the floor jack alone.
- 🛑 Release the parking brake before removing the rotors. The parking-brake shoes sit inside each rotor.
- 🚫 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
- 🪢 Hang each caliper securely. Never let it hang from its rubber brake hose.
- 🧤 Brake dust may be harmful. Wear gloves and safety glasses, and never use compressed air to clean it.
- 🔥 Allow the brakes to cool completely before beginning.
- 🔋 Battery disconnection is not required because your Avalon does not use an electronic parking brake.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 21mm lug-nut socket
- 14mm six-point socket
- 17mm six-point socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated 10-80 Nm
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 40-150 Nm
- 6-inch socket extension
- Flat-blade screwdriver with 6-inch shaft
- Small wire brush with brass bristles
- Brake caliper piston compressor (specialty)
- M8 x 1.25 rotor removal bolts, 40mm minimum length
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Rubber wheel chocks
- Mechanic’s wire rated 25 lb minimum
- Drain pan with 2-quart capacity
- Turkey baster with 4-ounce capacity
- Nitrile gloves rated 5-mil minimum
- ANSI Z87.1 safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set with shims and wear indicators - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 pint
- Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
- High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1 tube
📋 Before You Begin
- 🚗 Park your Avalon on level pavement. Shift into Park, switch off the engine, and fully release the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place rubber wheel chocks firmly against the front and rear of both front tires.
- 🔍 Open the hood and inspect the brake-fluid reservoir. If it is at the MAX line, use the turkey baster to remove a small amount so it will not overflow when the caliper pistons are compressed.
- 🧼 Protect painted surfaces from brake fluid. Brake fluid damages paint quickly.
- 📱 No infotainment menu, scan tool, electronic parking-brake service mode, coding, or battery registration is required.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the rear lug nuts
- Use the 21mm lug-nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about one-quarter turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts while the tires are supporting the vehicle.
Step 2: Raise and support the rear
- Use the 2-ton floor jack at the reinforced rear center jacking point beneath the rear suspension crossmember.
- Place the 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced rear side support points specified for your Avalon.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands, then push the body lightly to verify that it is stable.
- Keep the floor jack lightly touching the center point.
Step 3: Remove both rear wheels
- Use the 21mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the rear lug nuts.
- Lift off both wheels and place them flat away from the work area.
- Put the drain pan beneath the brake assembly to catch brake-cleaner runoff.
Step 4: Remove the rear caliper
- Use the 14mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, and 6-inch extension to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper from the pads without pulling or twisting the brake hose.
- Use the mechanic’s wire to suspend the caliper from a solid suspension component.
- A guide pin lets the caliper slide sideways and apply both pads evenly.
Step 5: Remove the old pads and compress the piston
- Remove the inner and outer pads by hand. Note the location of each wear indicator before removal.
- Place an old pad against the piston, then use the brake caliper piston compressor to push the piston slowly and straight into the caliper.
- Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Use the turkey baster if the fluid approaches the top.
- Do not twist the piston; this conventional rear caliper piston presses straight inward.
Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket
- Use the 17mm socket, 1/2-inch breaker bar, and 6-inch extension to remove the two caliper-bracket bolts.
- Remove the bracket and set it on a clean surface.
- Remove the old stainless pad-support clips from the bracket by hand.
Step 7: Remove the old rotor
- Confirm again that the parking brake is completely released.
- Pull the rotor straight from the hub by hand.
- If the rotor is rusted to the hub, thread the two M8 x 1.25 rotor removal bolts evenly into the rotor’s threaded holes. Turn each bolt a little at a time with the appropriate 13mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet until the rotor releases.
- If the rotor moves outward but catches on the parking-brake shoes, remove the rubber access plug and use the flat-blade screwdriver to retract the star-wheel adjuster several clicks. A star-wheel adjuster is the small toothed wheel that changes parking-brake shoe clearance.
- Remove the extraction bolts before installing the new rotor.
Step 8: Clean the hub and prepare the new rotor
- Use the brass wire brush to remove loose rust from the hub face and center pilot.
- Keep debris away from the parking-brake shoes and wheel-bearing seal.
- Spray both friction surfaces of the new rotor with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and wipe them with a clean lint-free towel.
- Do not put lubricant on the rotor, wheel studs, lug nuts, or brake-pad friction material.
Step 9: Install the new rotor
- Slide the clean rotor over the wheel studs and parking-brake shoes by hand.
- Install two lug nuts backward by hand to hold the rotor flat against the hub. Tighten them only finger-tight.
- Rotate the rotor by hand. A faint, even parking-brake shoe drag is acceptable; heavy binding is not.
- If necessary, use the flat-blade screwdriver through the access opening to adjust the star wheel until the rotor turns freely with only slight drag.
- Reinstall the rubber access plug by hand.
Step 10: Service the caliper bracket
- Use the brass wire brush and brake cleaner to clean the bracket surfaces beneath the pad-support clips.
- Install the new stainless hardware clips by hand.
- Remove one guide pin at a time by hand, wipe it clean, and inspect its rubber boot.
- Apply a thin film of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant to each guide pin, then reinstall it by hand. Do not use petroleum grease on rubber parts.
- Verify that both guide pins move smoothly and their boots are seated.
Step 11: Reinstall the caliper bracket
- Position the bracket over the rotor and start both bracket bolts by hand.
- Use the 17mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten both bracket bolts to 57 Nm (42 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Install the new brake pads
- Apply a very thin film of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant to the pad ears where they contact the stainless clips.
- If the new pads use separate shims, apply a thin film only between the pad backing plate and shim.
- Do not allow lubricant on the pad friction surfaces or rotor.
- Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand. Position the wear indicator to match the original pad arrangement.
- Confirm that both pads slide freely in the bracket without excessive looseness.
Step 13: Reinstall the caliper
- Remove the mechanic’s wire and lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
- Do not force the caliper. Compress the piston slightly farther with the brake caliper piston compressor if necessary.
- Start both 14mm guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the guide-pin bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
- Make sure the brake hose is not twisted and all guide-pin boots are seated.
Step 14: Repeat on the opposite side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 13 on the other rear brake using the same listed tools.
- Always replace rear pads and rotors on both sides.
Step 15: Reinstall the wheels
- Remove the two temporary lug nuts using the 21mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet.
- Install each wheel and start all lug nuts by hand.
- Use the 21mm socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
- Raise the vehicle slightly with the 2-ton floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower your Avalon until the tires touch the ground.
- Use the 21mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
Step 16: Restore brake pressure
- With the engine off and the transmission in Park, press and release the brake pedal slowly until it becomes firm.
- Do not move your Avalon until the brake pedal is firm.
- Check the reservoir and add DOT 3 brake fluid only as needed. Keep the level between MIN and MAX.
- Inspect both calipers and the ground beneath them for fluid leaks.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and hold steady pressure on the brake pedal for 30 seconds. The pedal should remain firm and should not sink toward the floor.
- 🅿️ Apply and release the parking brake several times, then verify that both rear wheels release normally.
- 🚗 Test the brakes at walking speed in a traffic-free area before driving normally.
- 🛑 Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from about 50 km/h to 15 km/h. Allow roughly 30 seconds between stops and avoid activating ABS.
- 🌡️ Drive for 5-10 minutes without heavy braking afterward to let the brakes cool.
- 🚫 Avoid hard stops and holding the brake pedal firmly while stationary for the first 300 km unless required for safety.
- 🔍 After the test drive, check for unusual heat, scraping, pulling, leaks, or a soft pedal.
- 🔩 Recheck wheel-lug torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs) after approximately 80-160 km.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹24,000-₹42,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹12,000-₹24,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹12,000-₹18,000 by doing it yourself!
Local labor rates and imported Avalon parts availability vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
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