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2011 Ford Explorer
2011 - 2019 Ford Explorer
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2011 Ford Explorer REAR brake and Rotor Change Drivers Side

2011 Ford Explorer REAR brake and Rotor Change Drivers Side

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

19mm
19mm
Deep Socket
or (23/32")
13mm
13mm
Socket
or (1/2")
15mm
15mm
Combo Wrench
or (9/16")
18mm
18mm
Socket
or (11/16")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2011-2019 Ford Explorer (Trim: XLT)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2011-2019 Ford Explorer (Trim: XLT)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads and both rear rotors on your Explorer. The caliper pistons press straight inward, while the parking brake shoes remain inside the rotor “hat.”

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Explorer with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a rear caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing the rotors because its shoes sit inside them.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not use compressed air to clean the brakes.
  • ⚠️ Suspend each caliper securely. Never allow it to hang from its rubber brake hose.
  • ⚠️ Open the brake-fluid reservoir before compressing the pistons, and prevent fluid from overflowing.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnection is not required because your Explorer uses a mechanical parking brake.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 19mm deep socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm combination wrench
  • 18mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
  • 6-inch C-clamp
  • Old brake pad
  • 3-ton floor jack
  • 3-ton jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Brake spring adjusting spoon (specialty)
  • Dead-blow hammer
  • Small wire brush
  • Hub cleaning brush
  • Bungee cord
  • Brake-fluid syringe
  • Drain pan
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set with hardware - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2; replace in pairs
  • Aerosol brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
  • High-temperature ceramic brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small container, only if needed

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on firm, level ground. Shift into Park, switch off the engine, and release the parking brake completely.
  • 🛞 Place wheel chocks firmly in front of both front tires.
  • 🔧 A torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact manufacturer specification and must be used for final tightening.
  • 🧴 Open the hood and check the brake-fluid reservoir. Use a brake-fluid syringe to remove a small amount if the fluid is near the MAX line.
  • 📱 No infotainment service mode or scan-tool procedure is required for these mechanical rear brakes.
  • ⚠️ Work on one side at a time so the assembled side remains available as a reference.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts

  • Use a 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-half turn.
  • Do not remove the wheel nuts while your Explorer is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear

  • Use the 3-ton floor jack at the specified rear lifting point shown in the owner’s manual.
  • Position 3-ton jack stands beneath the designated rear support points, then lower your Explorer onto them.
  • Keep the floor jack lightly contacting the lifting point as a backup, without carrying vehicle weight.
  • Push the body gently to confirm it is stable before removing either wheel.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

  • Use the 19mm deep socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and slide them beneath the body as an additional precaution.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper

  • Place a drain pan beneath the brake assembly.
  • Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
  • If a guide pin turns, hold its flat section with a 15mm combination wrench while loosening the bolt.
  • Lift the caliper from the bracket and suspend it with a bungee cord.
  • Do not disconnect the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads

  • Pull the inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver to remove the old stainless-steel pad clips.
  • Note the position of any wear indicator before discarding the old pads.

Step 6: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston.
  • Fit a 6-inch C-clamp over the caliper and old pad, then turn it slowly until the piston sits fully inside the caliper bore.
  • Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Use the brake-fluid syringe if the level approaches the top.
  • Stop if the piston binds, tilts, or brake fluid leaks from the caliper.
  • Slow pressure prevents piston and seal damage.

Step 7: Remove the Caliper Bracket

  • Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper-bracket bolts.
  • Support the bracket while removing the final bolt.
  • Set the bracket on a clean surface.

Step 8: Remove the Rear Rotor

  • Confirm again that the parking brake is fully released.
  • Pull off any thin factory shipping retainers from the wheel studs using a flat-blade screwdriver. They are not reused.
  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
  • If the rotor is rusted to the hub, strike the rotor hat between the studs with a dead-blow hammer while rotating the rotor.
  • If the rotor moves outward but catches on the parking-brake shoes, use a flat-blade screwdriver or brake spring adjusting spoon through the access opening to retract the shoe adjuster slightly.
  • Do not strike the wheel studs or the thin braking surface.

Step 9: Inspect the Parking Brake

  • Use safety glasses and visually inspect the parking-brake shoes inside the rotor area.
  • Stop the repair if a shoe lining is cracked, loose, soaked with fluid, or worn to the metal.
  • Check that the shoe springs remain seated and that no parts were disturbed during rotor removal.

Step 10: Clean the Hub and New Rotor

  • Use a hub cleaning brush to remove rust from the wheel-hub face and center pilot.
  • Use a small wire brush to clean the caliper-bracket pad contact surfaces.
  • Spray both friction surfaces and the inside drum surface of the new rotor with aerosol brake cleaner.
  • Wipe away residue and keep lubricant off every friction surface.

Step 11: Install the New Rotor

  • Slide the clean new rotor over the wheel studs and parking-brake shoes.
  • If the rotor will not fit, use a brake spring adjusting spoon through the access opening to retract the parking-brake adjuster slightly.
  • Temporarily thread one wheel nut onto a stud by hand to hold the rotor flat against the hub.
  • Turn the rotor by hand. A very light parking-brake shoe drag is acceptable, but binding is not.

Step 12: Service the Caliper Bracket

  • Install the new stainless-steel pad clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Remove each guide pin by hand, wipe it clean, and inspect its rubber boot.
  • Apply a thin layer of high-temperature ceramic brake lubricant to the guide pins, then reinstall them into their original positions.
  • Apply only a thin film of lubricant beneath the pad clip contact areas.
  • Do not place lubricant on the rotor or pad friction material.

Step 13: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

  • Position the bracket over the rotor and start both bracket bolts by hand.
  • Use an 18mm socket and torque wrench to tighten both bolts to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Install the New Brake Pads

  • Press the new inner and outer pads into the bracket clips by hand.
  • Verify that each pad slides freely without excessive looseness.
  • Apply a very thin layer of high-temperature ceramic brake lubricant only where the pad backing plates contact the caliper and piston.

Step 15: Reinstall the Caliper

  • Place the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
  • Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent crossed threads.
  • If necessary, hold the guide pin with a 15mm combination wrench.
  • Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench to tighten both guide-pin bolts to 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs).
  • Repeat Steps 4-15 on the opposite rear brake.

Step 16: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Remove the temporary wheel nut using the 19mm deep socket and 3/8-inch ratchet.
  • Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
  • Use the 19mm deep socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the nuts in a star pattern.
  • Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise your Explorer slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower the tires onto the ground.
  • Use the 19mm deep socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Restore Brake Pedal Pressure

  • Before starting the engine, press and release the brake pedal slowly several times until it becomes firm.
  • Do not drive your Explorer if the pedal remains soft or sinks toward the floor.
  • Check the reservoir and add fresh DOT 3 brake fluid only if the level is below MAX.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start the engine and hold firm brake-pedal pressure for 30 seconds. The pedal should remain steady.
  • 🔍 Inspect both rear calipers and brake hoses for leaks.
  • 🅿️ Apply and release the parking brake several times, then confirm both rear wheels rotate without heavy binding.
  • 🚗 Test the brakes at walking speed in a safe, traffic-free area before normal driving.
  • 🔥 Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 15 km/h. Allow about 30 seconds between stops and avoid coming to a complete stop with hot brakes.
  • 🛑 Avoid hard emergency-style braking for the first 300-500 km unless required for safety.
  • 🔧 Recheck wheel-nut torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) after 80-160 km.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹28,000-₹48,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹14,000-₹28,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹14,000-₹20,000 by doing it yourself!

Local labor and imported-part pricing vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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