How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2003-2024 Nissan Murano (Trim: Platinum)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2003-2024 Nissan Murano (Trim: Platinum)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
🔧 Murano - Rear Brake Pads and Rotor Replacement
This repair replaces both rear brake rotors and the complete rear brake-pad set. Your Murano uses a conventional caliper and a separate drum-style parking brake inside each rear rotor, so the parking brake must remain released while removing the rotors.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and support your Murano with jack stands—never rely on the floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep the parking brake released after securely chocking the front wheels.
- ⚠️ Brake dust may be harmful. Do not blow it away with compressed air.
- ⚠️ Never press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Hang each caliper securely; never allow it to hang from its rubber brake hose.
- ⚠️ Brake fluid damages paint. Clean spills immediately and do not overfill the reservoir.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnection and scan-tool parking-brake service mode are not required.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 3-ton floor jack
- 3-ton jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm deep socket
- 14mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 1/2-inch breaker bar
- 1/2-inch torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
- Rear brake caliper piston compressor (specialty)
- Large flat-blade screwdriver
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Brake-pad spreader
- Mechanic’s wire hanger
- Soft-face dead-blow hammer
- Hub-cleaning wire brush
- Brake-cleaner catch pan
- Brake-fluid syringe (specialty)
- Nitrile mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
- NIOSH-approved P100 dust mask
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 axle set
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 — replace in pairs
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1 axle set
- High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small sealed bottle, if needed
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Murano on level pavement, select Park, switch off the engine, and place wheel chocks firmly in front of and behind both front tires.
- Release the foot-operated parking brake completely. The parking-brake shoes sit inside the rear rotors and can prevent rotor removal if applied.
- Open the hood and check the brake-fluid reservoir. If it is at the MAX line, use a brake-fluid syringe to remove a small amount before compressing the pistons.
- A torque wrench is a tool that tightens a fastener to an exact specified force.
- A caliper piston compressor slowly pushes the brake piston back into its housing to make room for the thicker new pads.
- Complete one side at a time so the assembled opposite side remains available as a reference.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts
- Keep the tires on the ground and use a 21mm deep socket with a 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-half turn.
- Do not remove the wheel nuts yet.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear
- Use the 3-ton floor jack at the approved rear lifting point shown in the owner’s manual.
- Place 3-ton jack stands under the reinforced rear support points on both sides.
- Lower the vehicle carefully onto the stands, leave the floor jack lightly supporting the lifting point, and gently shake the body to verify stability.
Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels
- Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels and slide them beneath the vehicle as additional protection without contacting suspension components.
Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper
- Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper slide-pin bolts.
- If a slide pin turns, hold its flats with the appropriate open-end section of the supplied hand tool while loosening the bolt.
- Lift the caliper away from the pads. Use the mechanic’s wire hanger to suspend it from the suspension.
- Do not disconnect the brake hose.
- Never let the caliper hang by its hose.
Step 5: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware
- Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to lift the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper bracket.
- Use the same screwdriver to remove the stainless-steel pad hardware clips.
- Note the position of wear indicators and shims so the new parts can be installed in the matching locations.
Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket
- Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper-bracket bolts.
- Remove the bracket and place it on a clean surface.
- Keep grease, brake cleaner, and dirty gloves away from the exposed brake-hose fittings.
Step 7: Remove the Rear Rotor
- Confirm again that the parking brake is fully released.
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
- If it is rusted in place, use a soft-face dead-blow hammer to tap around the rotor hat between the wheel studs. Do not strike the studs.
- If the rotor moves outward but catches on the parking-brake shoes, use a small flat-blade screwdriver through the rotor access opening to retract the parking-brake adjuster slightly.
- Count the adjuster movements so the setting can be restored after the new rotor is installed.
- Do not force the rotor over the parking-brake shoes.
Step 8: Inspect the Parking Brake
- Use safety glasses and a P100 dust mask while inspecting the parking-brake shoes, springs, and hold-down hardware.
- Replace damaged, oil-soaked, cracked, or separated parking-brake shoes before continuing.
- Do not spray lubricant or brake cleaner directly into parking-brake mechanisms unless necessary for cleaning.
Step 9: Clean the Hub and New Rotor
- Place the brake-cleaner catch pan below the assembly.
- Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner and the hub-cleaning wire brush to remove rust from the hub face.
- Keep the hub face flat and clean so the new rotor does not wobble.
- Use brake cleaner and clean towels to remove the protective coating from both friction surfaces of the new rotor.
- A clean hub helps prevent brake vibration.
Step 10: Install the New Rotor
- Slide the new rotor over the wheel studs and parking-brake shoes by hand.
- Temporarily install two wheel nuts by hand to hold the rotor flat against the hub.
- If the parking-brake adjuster was retracted, use the small flat-blade screwdriver to return it by the same number of movements.
- Rotate the rotor by hand. A very light, even shoe drag is acceptable, but the rotor must turn freely without binding.
Step 11: Service the Caliper Bracket
- Pull each slide pin from the bracket by hand, one at a time, so their original positions are not mixed.
- Wipe each pin clean and inspect its rubber boot for cuts or swelling.
- Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant to the smooth portion of each pin, then reinstall it by hand.
- Use the hub-cleaning wire brush to clean the pad-contact areas on the bracket.
- Press the new stainless-steel hardware clips into the bracket by hand.
- Apply only a paper-thin coating of silicone brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the hardware.
- Do not put lubricant on the rotor or pad friction material.
Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket
- Position the bracket over the rotor and start both bracket bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the bracket bolts to Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Compress the Caliper Piston
- Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
- Use the rear brake caliper piston compressor or brake-pad spreader to push the piston slowly and straight into the caliper.
- This piston presses straight inward; do not twist it.
- Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Use the brake-fluid syringe if the fluid approaches the top.
- Stop if the piston binds, tilts, leaks, or requires excessive force.
Step 14: Install the New Brake Pads
- Fit the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand, matching the original wear-indicator and shim positions.
- Confirm both pads slide smoothly in the hardware without excessive looseness.
- Do not touch the pad friction surfaces with greasy gloves.
Step 15: Reinstall the Caliper
- Remove the mechanic’s wire hanger and lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
- Make sure the brake hose is not twisted and the slide-pin boots are properly seated.
- Start both slide-pin bolts by hand.
- Use the 14mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the slide-pin bolts to Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
Step 16: Repeat on the Opposite Side
- Use the same tools and procedure to replace the pads, rotor, and hardware on the other rear wheel.
- Replace both rotors and all rear pads during the same repair.
Step 17: Reinstall the Wheels
- Remove the temporary wheel nuts, then install each wheel on the hub.
- Start all wheel nuts by hand.
- Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
- Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise the vehicle, remove the jack stands, and lower the tires until they firmly contact the ground.
- Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Before starting the engine, press and release the brake pedal repeatedly until it becomes firm. This seats the caliper pistons against the new pads.
- ✅ Check the brake-fluid reservoir and adjust it to the MAX line only with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.
- ✅ Inspect both rear calipers and brake hoses for leaks or twisting.
- ✅ Apply and release the foot-operated parking brake several times, then confirm both rear wheels rotate without binding.
- ✅ Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal remains firm. Do not drive if it sinks, feels unusually soft, or a leak is visible.
- ✅ Perform an initial low-speed brake test in a traffic-free area.
- ✅ Follow the brake-pad manufacturer’s bedding instructions. If none are supplied, use gentle stops for the first 300-500 km and avoid holding the hot brakes after a hard stop.
- ✅ Recheck the wheel-nut torque after approximately 80-100 km.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹30,000-₹55,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹16,000-₹35,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹10,000-₹20,000 by doing it yourself!
Imported Murano parts availability can significantly affect pricing around Sonīpat. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
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