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2018 Honda CR-V
2017 - 2022 Honda CR-V
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Front Strut assembly replacement 2017 - 2022  Honda CRV

Front Strut assembly replacement 2017 - 2022 Honda CRV

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2017-2022 Honda CR-V (Trim: LX)

Step-by-step complete strut assembly installation with tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2017-2022 Honda CR-V (Trim: LX)

Step-by-step complete strut assembly installation with tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

Orion
Orion

🔧 CR-V - Front Strut Replacement

This procedure replaces both front strut assemblies on your CR-V. The rear suspension uses separate shock absorbers and springs, so these instructions apply only to the front.

Assumption: Complete preassembled struts are being installed. This is safer for a beginner because no spring compressor is required.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs to keep handling and braking balanced.
  • ⚠️ Support your CR-V with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Do not loosen the center nut on top of the strut. It holds the compressed coil spring.
  • ⚠️ Do not allow the steering knuckle to hang from the brake hose or wheel-speed sensor wire.
  • ⚠️ Keep fingers away from the gap between the strut and steering knuckle.
  • ⚠️ A professional four-wheel alignment is required after replacement.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnection is not required.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 3-ton floor jack
  • 3-ton jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench rated 20-200 Nm
  • 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm deep socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 17mm combination wrench
  • 19mm combination wrench
  • 6mm hex-bit socket
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Trim-clip removal tool
  • Rubber mallet
  • Medium pry bar
  • Penetrating oil
  • Mechanic’s wire
  • Paint marker
  • Nitrile mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front left complete strut assembly - Qty: 1
  • Front right complete strut assembly - Qty: 1
  • Front strut-to-steering-knuckle bolts - Qty: 4
  • Front strut-to-steering-knuckle self-locking nuts - Qty: 4
  • Front stabilizer-link self-locking nuts - Qty: 2
  • Front upper strut-mount self-locking nuts - Qty: 6

Replace in pairs: Install both front strut assemblies during the same repair.


📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your CR-V on firm, level ground. Select Park and apply the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks securely behind both rear tires.
  • Verify that the replacement assemblies are labeled left and right. The brackets must face the same directions as the original struts.
  • Open the hood and locate the three small mounting nuts around the top of each strut tower.
  • Do not loosen the large center nut in the middle of either strut mount.
  • No infotainment setting, scan-tool command, or suspension service mode is required.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the front wheel nuts

  • Use the 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut about one-half turn.
  • Do not remove the wheel nuts while your CR-V is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and support the front

  • Use the 3-ton floor jack under the reinforced front-center jacking point to raise your CR-V.
  • Position the 3-ton jack stands beneath the left and right front support points.
  • Lower your CR-V onto the stands, then gently push the body to confirm it is stable.
  • Keep the floor jack lightly positioned beneath the front-center point as an additional safeguard.

Step 3: Remove both front wheels

  • Use the 19mm socket and ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
  • Remove both front wheels and slide them beneath the side rails as an additional safety measure.

Step 4: Record the strut position

  • Use the paint marker to draw alignment marks across the strut and steering knuckle.
  • These marks provide a rough installation reference but do not replace a wheel alignment.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the stabilizer-link nut and both lower strut nuts. Allow several minutes for it to work.

Step 5: Release the hose and sensor brackets

  • Use the 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the brake-hose bracket bolt from the strut.
  • Use the trim-clip removal tool or flat-blade screwdriver to release the wheel-speed sensor wire clip.
  • Move both items aside without pulling, twisting, or sharply bending them.

Step 6: Disconnect the stabilizer link

  • The stabilizer link is the short jointed rod connecting the strut to the anti-roll bar.
  • Use the 17mm socket and ratchet to remove its nut from the strut bracket.
  • If the stud rotates, hold its center with the 6mm hex-bit socket while turning the nut with the 17mm combination wrench.
  • Move the link out of the strut bracket without forcing its rubber boots.

Step 7: Support the steering knuckle

  • Place the 3-ton floor jack beneath the steering knuckle and raise it just enough to support its weight.
  • Use mechanic’s wire to loosely support the knuckle from a sturdy suspension point.
  • Do not loop the wire around the brake hose, sensor wire, or CV axle boot.

Step 8: Remove the lower strut fasteners

  • Use the 19mm combination wrench to hold each bolt head.
  • Use the 19mm socket and breaker bar to remove both lower self-locking nuts.
  • Support the knuckle, then slide the two bolts out. Use the rubber mallet for light taps if necessary.
  • Use the medium pry bar only at the solid strut-to-knuckle joint if gentle separation is needed.
  • Do not pull the knuckle outward far enough to separate the inner CV joint.

Step 9: Remove the upper mounting nuts

  • Hold the strut securely with one hand from inside the wheel opening.
  • Use the 14mm deep socket and ratchet to remove the three small upper mounting nuts.
  • Do not remove or turn the large center nut.
  • Lower the complete strut assembly carefully through the wheel opening.

Step 10: Compare the replacement strut

  • Place the old and new assemblies side by side on the ground.
  • Confirm the upper studs, lower bolt holes, spring orientation, brake-hose bracket, and stabilizer-link bracket match.
  • Use the paint marker to identify the old strut so it cannot be reinstalled accidentally.

Step 11: Install the complete strut assembly

  • Guide the new assembly into the strut tower without damaging its upper studs.
  • Install the three new upper nuts by hand with no tools until each nut turns several full rotations.
  • Use the 14mm deep socket and torque wrench to tighten the upper mounting nuts evenly to Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
  • Do not apply torque to the center shaft nut.

Step 12: Connect the strut to the steering knuckle

  • Use the 3-ton floor jack to align the steering knuckle with the lower strut bracket.
  • Install the new lower bolts through the strut and knuckle, matching the original orientation.
  • Thread the new self-locking nuts by hand.
  • Use the 19mm combination wrench to hold each bolt and the 19mm socket with torque wrench to tighten each nut to Torque to 116 Nm (86 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect the stabilizer link

  • Insert the stabilizer-link stud through the strut bracket and install a new self-locking nut by hand.
  • Use the 17mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the nut to Torque to 79 Nm (58 ft-lbs).
  • If the stud turns before final tightening, hold it with the 6mm hex-bit socket and use the 17mm combination wrench.

Step 14: Reattach the hose and sensor wire

  • Position the brake-hose bracket exactly as it was on the original strut.
  • Use the 12mm socket and torque wrench to tighten its bolt to Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs).
  • Use your fingers to press the wheel-speed sensor wire clip fully into its mounting hole.
  • Turn the steering knuckle from side to side by hand and verify neither line becomes tight or rubs the tire area.

Step 15: Repeat on the opposite side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 14 using the same listed tools.
  • Install the correctly labeled strut assembly for that side.
  • Finish one side before disassembling the other.

Step 16: Install the front wheels

  • Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
  • Use the 19mm socket and ratchet to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
  • Remove the wheels stored beneath the vehicle.

Step 17: Lower the vehicle and torque the wheels

  • Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise your CR-V slightly, then remove both jack stands.
  • Lower the vehicle until the tires are fully on the ground.
  • Use the 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start your CR-V and slowly turn the steering wheel fully left and right. Listen for binding, popping, or spring movement.
  • ✅ Inspect both brake hoses and wheel-speed sensor wires with the steering turned in both directions.
  • ✅ Drive slowly in a safe area. Confirm the steering returns normally and no warning lights appear.
  • ✅ Arrange a professional four-wheel alignment before normal or highway driving.
  • ✅ After 40-80 km, use the 19mm socket and torque wrench to recheck the wheel nuts at 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
  • ⚠️ Stop driving if your CR-V pulls sharply, clunks, has unstable steering, or displays ABS or stability-control warnings.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹45,000-₹75,000 including parts, labor, and alignment

DIY Cost: ₹24,000-₹45,000 for parts and alignment

You Save: ₹15,000-₹30,000 by doing it yourself!

Local labor and imported-part prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.


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