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2018 Nissan Pathfinder
2013 - 2020 Nissan Pathfinder
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How to Replace Front Struts 2013-2020 Nissan Pathfinder

How to Replace Front Struts 2013-2020 Nissan Pathfinder

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Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2013-2020 Nissan Pathfinder (Trim: SV)

Step-by-step complete strut assembly guide with tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2013-2020 Nissan Pathfinder (Trim: SV)

Step-by-step complete strut assembly guide with tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 Pathfinder - Front Strut Replacement

This procedure replaces both front struts as complete, preassembled units. Complete strut assemblies are safest for a beginner because they eliminate the need to compress the powerful coil springs.

Assumption: You are replacing both front struts with complete assemblies.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so handling and braking remain balanced.
  • ⚠️ Support your Pathfinder with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Do not loosen the large center nut on top of the strut. It retains a highly compressed coil spring.
  • ⚠️ If using bare replacement struts, spring transfer requires a professional wall-mounted spring compressor. Portable compressors can slip and cause severe injury.
  • ⚠️ Support the steering knuckle after disconnecting the strut. Letting it hang can damage the brake hose, ABS wiring, or CV axle.
  • ⚠️ A professional four-wheel alignment is required after replacement.
  • Battery disconnection is not required.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic’s gloves
  • Wheel chocks
  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • 21mm impact socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • 22mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-200 Nm
  • 18mm combination wrench
  • 21mm combination wrench
  • 6mm hex-bit socket
  • 12-inch adjustable wrench
  • 12-inch pry bar
  • 16-ounce dead-blow hammer
  • Medium flat-blade screwdriver
  • Trim-clip removal tool
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil aerosol
  • Mechanic’s wire rated 45kg minimum

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Complete front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut-to-steering-knuckle lock nuts - Qty: 4
  • Front stabilizer-link lock nuts - Qty: 2
  • Front strut upper-mount lock nuts - Qty: 6

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Pathfinder on firm, level pavement. Select Park, apply the parking brake, turn off the engine, and chock both rear wheels.
  • Compare each complete replacement assembly with the corresponding original. Confirm that the left and right brackets, spring orientation, and upper mounts match.
  • Apply penetrating oil to the lower strut fasteners and stabilizer-link nuts. Allow it to soak for several minutes.
  • No infotainment service mode, scan-tool command, or battery registration is required.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Nuts

  • Place the wheel chocks firmly behind both rear tires.
  • Use a 21mm impact socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut about one-half turn. Do not remove them yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

  • Use the 2-ton floor jack beneath the specified front-center lifting point to raise your Pathfinder.
  • Position the 2-ton jack stands under the reinforced side support points, then lower the vehicle gently onto them.
  • Keep the floor jack lightly contacting the lifting point as a backup without carrying the vehicle’s weight.
  • Use the 21mm impact socket and breaker bar to remove the wheel nuts and both front wheels.

Step 3: Record the Strut Position

  • Use the paint marker to draw alignment marks across each strut-to-steering-knuckle connection. These marks help preserve the approximate camber position until alignment.
  • Use the floor jack beneath the steering knuckle with light pressure. The knuckle is the heavy metal part holding the wheel hub.

Step 4: Release the Brake Hose and ABS Wire

  • Use the 12mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the brake-hose bracket bolt from the strut.
  • Use the trim-clip removal tool or medium flat-blade screwdriver to release the ABS sensor-wire clips without pulling on the wire.
  • Secure the hose and wire safely aside with mechanic’s wire.
  • During assembly, tighten the brake-hose bracket bolt to 10.8 Nm (8 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Disconnect the Stabilizer Link

  • Use the 18mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the stabilizer-link nut from the strut bracket.
  • If the stud spins, hold its center with the 6mm hex-bit socket while turning the nut with the 18mm combination wrench.
  • Move the link out of the strut bracket. Use the 12-inch pry bar only for gentle positioning.
  • During assembly, install a new lock nut and tighten it to 84 Nm (62 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Disconnect the Strut from the Steering Knuckle

  • Use the 21mm or 22mm socket, matching 21mm combination wrench, and breaker bar to loosen the two lower strut fasteners.
  • Use the dead-blow hammer to tap the bolts out while the floor jack supports the knuckle.
  • Use the mechanic’s wire to support the knuckle. Do not let it pull on the brake hose, ABS wire, or CV axle.
  • Use the 12-inch pry bar gently to separate the knuckle from the strut bracket.
  • During assembly, install new lock nuts and tighten both strut-to-knuckle fasteners to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

  • Open the hood and locate the three small upper-mount nuts above the strut tower.
  • Use the 13mm or 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove two nuts completely.
  • Support the strut with one gloved hand, then use the same socket and ratchet to remove the final nut.
  • Guide the complete strut assembly downward and out through the wheel opening.
  • Do not loosen the large center nut.

Step 8: Install the Complete Strut Assembly

  • Confirm the assembly is fitted to the correct side by comparing its hose, ABS-wire, and stabilizer-link brackets with the removed unit.
  • Guide the assembly into the strut tower by hand and start all three new upper nuts several turns.
  • Use the 13mm or 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the upper-mount nuts evenly to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
  • Start every nut by hand to prevent cross-threading.

Step 9: Reconnect the Steering Knuckle

  • Use the floor jack to align the knuckle with the lower strut bracket.
  • Insert the two bolts in their original direction and align the paint marks as closely as possible.
  • Use the 21mm or 22mm socket, matching 21mm combination wrench, and torque wrench to tighten new lock nuts to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
  • Remove the mechanic’s wire after confirming the knuckle is fully supported by the strut.

Step 10: Reconnect the Link, Hose, and ABS Wire

  • Use the 18mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the new stabilizer-link lock nut to 84 Nm (62 ft-lbs). Hold the stud with the 6mm hex-bit socket if it spins.
  • Use the 12mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the brake-hose bracket bolt to 10.8 Nm (8 ft-lbs).
  • Use the trim-clip removal tool to guide each ABS-wire clip securely into its original bracket.
  • Check by hand that the hose and wire are not twisted, stretched, or able to rub the tire.

Step 11: Replace the Opposite Strut

  • Use the same listed tools and repeat Steps 3 through 10 on the other side.
  • Do not remove both strut assemblies simultaneously. Keeping one side assembled provides a useful routing reference.

Step 12: Reinstall the Wheels

  • Install both wheels and start every wheel nut by hand.
  • Use the 21mm impact socket and ratchet to snug the nuts in a star pattern. Do not apply final torque while raised.
  • Use the floor jack to raise your Pathfinder, remove the jack stands, and lower it completely.
  • Use the 21mm impact socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock while parked. Listen for binding, popping, or rubbing.
  • Press the brake pedal several times and verify it feels normal before moving your Pathfinder.
  • Take a slow test drive. Stop immediately if the steering pulls severely, a warning light appears, or you hear heavy knocking.
  • Arrange a professional four-wheel alignment as soon as possible. Strut removal changes the front camber and toe relationship.
  • After 40-80 km, use the 21mm impact socket and torque wrench to recheck the wheel nuts at 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,500 (parts + labor and alignment)

DIY Cost: $350-$750 (parts and alignment)

You Save: $500-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.


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