How to Replace Front Struts on a 2013-2020 Nissan Pathfinder (Trim: SV)
Step-by-step complete strut assembly guide with tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2013-2020 Nissan Pathfinder (Trim: SV)
Step-by-step complete strut assembly guide with tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Pathfinder - Front Strut Replacement
This procedure replaces both front struts as complete, preassembled units. Complete strut assemblies are safest for a beginner because they eliminate the need to compress the powerful coil springs.
Assumption: You are replacing both front struts with complete assemblies.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so handling and braking remain balanced.
- ⚠️ Support your Pathfinder with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Do not loosen the large center nut on top of the strut. It retains a highly compressed coil spring.
- ⚠️ If using bare replacement struts, spring transfer requires a professional wall-mounted spring compressor. Portable compressors can slip and cause severe injury.
- ⚠️ Support the steering knuckle after disconnecting the strut. Letting it hang can damage the brake hose, ABS wiring, or CV axle.
- ⚠️ A professional four-wheel alignment is required after replacement.
- Battery disconnection is not required.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic’s gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- 21mm impact socket
- 12mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 22mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-200 Nm
- 18mm combination wrench
- 21mm combination wrench
- 6mm hex-bit socket
- 12-inch adjustable wrench
- 12-inch pry bar
- 16-ounce dead-blow hammer
- Medium flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim-clip removal tool
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil aerosol
- Mechanic’s wire rated 45kg minimum
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Complete front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut-to-steering-knuckle lock nuts - Qty: 4
- Front stabilizer-link lock nuts - Qty: 2
- Front strut upper-mount lock nuts - Qty: 6
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Pathfinder on firm, level pavement. Select Park, apply the parking brake, turn off the engine, and chock both rear wheels.
- Compare each complete replacement assembly with the corresponding original. Confirm that the left and right brackets, spring orientation, and upper mounts match.
- Apply penetrating oil to the lower strut fasteners and stabilizer-link nuts. Allow it to soak for several minutes.
- No infotainment service mode, scan-tool command, or battery registration is required.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Nuts
- Place the wheel chocks firmly behind both rear tires.
- Use a 21mm impact socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut about one-half turn. Do not remove them yet.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle
- Use the 2-ton floor jack beneath the specified front-center lifting point to raise your Pathfinder.
- Position the 2-ton jack stands under the reinforced side support points, then lower the vehicle gently onto them.
- Keep the floor jack lightly contacting the lifting point as a backup without carrying the vehicle’s weight.
- Use the 21mm impact socket and breaker bar to remove the wheel nuts and both front wheels.
Step 3: Record the Strut Position
- Use the paint marker to draw alignment marks across each strut-to-steering-knuckle connection. These marks help preserve the approximate camber position until alignment.
- Use the floor jack beneath the steering knuckle with light pressure. The knuckle is the heavy metal part holding the wheel hub.
Step 4: Release the Brake Hose and ABS Wire
- Use the 12mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the brake-hose bracket bolt from the strut.
- Use the trim-clip removal tool or medium flat-blade screwdriver to release the ABS sensor-wire clips without pulling on the wire.
- Secure the hose and wire safely aside with mechanic’s wire.
- During assembly, tighten the brake-hose bracket bolt to 10.8 Nm (8 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Disconnect the Stabilizer Link
- Use the 18mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the stabilizer-link nut from the strut bracket.
- If the stud spins, hold its center with the 6mm hex-bit socket while turning the nut with the 18mm combination wrench.
- Move the link out of the strut bracket. Use the 12-inch pry bar only for gentle positioning.
- During assembly, install a new lock nut and tighten it to 84 Nm (62 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Disconnect the Strut from the Steering Knuckle
- Use the 21mm or 22mm socket, matching 21mm combination wrench, and breaker bar to loosen the two lower strut fasteners.
- Use the dead-blow hammer to tap the bolts out while the floor jack supports the knuckle.
- Use the mechanic’s wire to support the knuckle. Do not let it pull on the brake hose, ABS wire, or CV axle.
- Use the 12-inch pry bar gently to separate the knuckle from the strut bracket.
- During assembly, install new lock nuts and tighten both strut-to-knuckle fasteners to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts
- Open the hood and locate the three small upper-mount nuts above the strut tower.
- Use the 13mm or 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove two nuts completely.
- Support the strut with one gloved hand, then use the same socket and ratchet to remove the final nut.
- Guide the complete strut assembly downward and out through the wheel opening.
- Do not loosen the large center nut.
Step 8: Install the Complete Strut Assembly
- Confirm the assembly is fitted to the correct side by comparing its hose, ABS-wire, and stabilizer-link brackets with the removed unit.
- Guide the assembly into the strut tower by hand and start all three new upper nuts several turns.
- Use the 13mm or 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the upper-mount nuts evenly to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
- Start every nut by hand to prevent cross-threading.
Step 9: Reconnect the Steering Knuckle
- Use the floor jack to align the knuckle with the lower strut bracket.
- Insert the two bolts in their original direction and align the paint marks as closely as possible.
- Use the 21mm or 22mm socket, matching 21mm combination wrench, and torque wrench to tighten new lock nuts to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
- Remove the mechanic’s wire after confirming the knuckle is fully supported by the strut.
Step 10: Reconnect the Link, Hose, and ABS Wire
- Use the 18mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the new stabilizer-link lock nut to 84 Nm (62 ft-lbs). Hold the stud with the 6mm hex-bit socket if it spins.
- Use the 12mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the brake-hose bracket bolt to 10.8 Nm (8 ft-lbs).
- Use the trim-clip removal tool to guide each ABS-wire clip securely into its original bracket.
- Check by hand that the hose and wire are not twisted, stretched, or able to rub the tire.
Step 11: Replace the Opposite Strut
- Use the same listed tools and repeat Steps 3 through 10 on the other side.
- Do not remove both strut assemblies simultaneously. Keeping one side assembled provides a useful routing reference.
Step 12: Reinstall the Wheels
- Install both wheels and start every wheel nut by hand.
- Use the 21mm impact socket and ratchet to snug the nuts in a star pattern. Do not apply final torque while raised.
- Use the floor jack to raise your Pathfinder, remove the jack stands, and lower it completely.
- Use the 21mm impact socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock while parked. Listen for binding, popping, or rubbing.
- Press the brake pedal several times and verify it feels normal before moving your Pathfinder.
- Take a slow test drive. Stop immediately if the steering pulls severely, a warning light appears, or you hear heavy knocking.
- Arrange a professional four-wheel alignment as soon as possible. Strut removal changes the front camber and toe relationship.
- After 40-80 km, use the 21mm impact socket and torque wrench to recheck the wheel nuts at 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $850-$1,500 (parts + labor and alignment)
DIY Cost: $350-$750 (parts and alignment)
You Save: $500-$750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.











