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2018 Ford Fusion
2013 - 2020 Ford Fusion
Inline 4 2.5L
Compatible with more variants.

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How to Replace Front Strut Assemblies 2013-2020 Ford Fusion

How to Replace Front Strut Assemblies 2013-2020 Ford Fusion

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2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
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Breaker Bar
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Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2013-2020 Ford Fusion (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step guide for complete strut assemblies with tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2013-2020 Ford Fusion (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step guide for complete strut assemblies with tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 Fusion - Front Strut Replacement

This procedure replaces both front struts using complete, preassembled strut units. A complete strut includes the coil spring, upper mount, bearing, and shock absorber, making the job safer for a first-time DIYer.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: These instructions cover complete front strut assemblies, not rebuilding the original struts.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so handling and braking remain balanced.
  • ⚠️ Never work beneath your Fusion while it is supported only by a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ The coil spring stores enough energy to cause severe injury. Do not loosen the large center nut on the upper strut mount.
  • ⚠️ Use complete preassembled struts. Rebuilding a strut requires a professional-quality spring compressor and advanced experience.
  • ⚠️ Support the steering knuckle so the brake hose and wheel-speed sensor wire are not stretched.
  • ⚠️ Keep grease and penetrating oil away from the brake rotor and pads.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnection is not required.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Hydraulic floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench rated to 250 Nm
  • 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
  • 13mm deep socket
  • 15mm deep socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • 24mm socket
  • 18mm combination wrench
  • 21mm combination wrench
  • 24mm combination wrench
  • 5mm hex-bit socket
  • 6-inch socket extension
  • 12-inch pry bar
  • 16-ounce ball-peen hammer
  • Brass drift punch
  • Wire brush
  • Paint marker
  • Mechanic’s support wire rated 45kg minimum
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic’s gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Complete front strut assembly - Qty: 2 - Replace in pairs
  • Front strut-to-steering-knuckle bolt and nut set - Qty: 2 sets
  • Front stabilizer-bar link nut - Qty: 2
  • Front strut upper-mount nut set - Qty: 2 sets
  • Penetrating oil - Qty: 1 can

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Fusion on solid, level ground. Shift to Park and apply the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks firmly behind both rear tires.
  • Confirm the replacement struts are marked for the correct left and right sides.
  • Arrange a professional four-wheel alignment immediately after replacement.
  • No infotainment service mode or scan-tool command is required.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Nuts

  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut approximately one-quarter turn.
  • Do not remove the wheel nuts while the tires are supporting the vehicle.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

  • Use the hydraulic floor jack beneath the specified front-center lifting point to raise your Fusion.
  • Position both jack stands beneath the reinforced front side support points.
  • Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Gently push the body to confirm it is stable.
  • Keep the floor jack lightly touching the lifting point as a backup.

Step 3: Remove Both Front Wheels

  • Use the 21mm socket and 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar to remove the wheel nuts.
  • Lift off both wheels and place them flat away from the work area.

Step 4: Inspect and Mark the Original Position

  • Use the wire brush to clean the strut-to-knuckle fasteners and stabilizer-link nut.
  • Apply penetrating oil to the exposed fastener threads.
  • Use the paint marker to trace the original relationship between the strut bracket and steering knuckle. This helps preserve approximate camber until alignment.
  • Camber is the wheel’s inward or outward tilt when viewed from the front.

Step 5: Release the Brake Hose and Sensor Wire

  • Use the 12-inch pry bar carefully to release the brake-hose retaining clip from the strut bracket.
  • Release the wheel-speed sensor wire from its strut retainers by hand.
  • Do not pull, twist, or hang the steering knuckle by either line.

Step 6: Disconnect the Stabilizer-Bar Link

  • Use the 15mm deep socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to loosen the stabilizer-link nut at the strut.
  • If the stud spins, hold its center with the 5mm hex-bit socket while turning the nut with the 15mm combination wrench.
  • Move the link away from the strut bracket without bending it.

Step 7: Support the Steering Knuckle

  • Use mechanic’s support wire to suspend the steering knuckle from a solid body or subframe point.
  • Leave enough movement to separate the knuckle from the strut, but do not place tension on the brake hose.

Step 8: Remove the Strut-to-Knuckle Fasteners

  • Use the 24mm socket with the breaker bar and the 24mm combination wrench to loosen the two strut-to-knuckle fasteners.
  • Remove the nuts, then use the brass drift punch and 16-ounce ball-peen hammer to drive the bolts out without damaging their threads.
  • Hold the steering knuckle while separating it from the strut bracket.
  • Do not allow the knuckle to pull outward far enough to separate the inner CV joint.

Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut-Mount Nuts

  • Support the strut with one hand from inside the wheel opening.
  • Under the hood, use the 13mm deep socket, 6-inch extension, and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to remove the three small upper-mount nuts.
  • Do not loosen the large center nut. It retains the compressed coil spring.
  • Guide the complete strut assembly down and out through the wheel opening.

Step 10: Compare and Position the New Strut

  • Place the old and new assemblies side by side and confirm the spring, brackets, mounting studs, and left/right orientation match.
  • Use both hands to guide the new complete strut through the wheel opening and insert its upper studs into the body holes.
  • Install the new upper-mount nuts finger-tight so the strut can still move slightly.
  • Never rotate the center strut nut.

Step 11: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

  • Use the 12-inch pry bar only as needed to align the steering knuckle with the strut bracket.
  • Insert the new strut-to-knuckle bolts in their original direction and install the new nuts.
  • Use the 24mm socket, 24mm combination wrench, and torque wrench to tighten both fasteners to 250 Nm (184 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Tighten the Upper Mount

  • Use the 13mm deep socket, 6-inch extension, and torque wrench to tighten the three upper-mount nuts evenly to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
  • Do not use an impact wrench on the upper mount.

Step 13: Reconnect the Stabilizer-Bar Link

  • Insert the stabilizer-link stud through the new strut bracket and install a new nut.
  • Use the 15mm deep socket and torque wrench to tighten the nut to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
  • If the stud spins before the nut seats, use the 5mm hex-bit socket with the 15mm combination wrench, then finish with the torque wrench.

Step 14: Reattach the Hose and Sensor Wire

  • Press the brake hose and wheel-speed sensor wire into the correct strut retainers by hand.
  • Use the 12-inch pry bar gently if the metal brake-hose clip requires seating.
  • Turn the steering knuckle fully in both directions by hand and verify neither line stretches, rubs, or twists.

Step 15: Replace the Strut on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the opposite side using the same listed tools.
  • Keep left- and right-side replacement struts on their designated sides.

Step 16: Reinstall the Wheels

  • Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand to prevent crossed threads.
  • Use the 21mm socket and 1/2-inch-drive ratchet to snug the nuts in a star pattern.
  • Use the hydraulic floor jack to raise your Fusion, remove the jack stands, and lower the tires until they firmly contact the ground.
  • Use the 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Bounce each front corner once and listen for clunks or movement.
  • Start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel from lock to lock. Stop if a hose, wire, or spring binds.
  • Take a slow test drive on a quiet road. Check steering response, noises, and whether your Fusion pulls to one side.
  • Obtain a professional four-wheel alignment before normal driving. Strut removal changes front-wheel alignment.
  • After 80-160 km, use the 21mm socket and torque wrench to recheck wheel-nut torque at 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
  • If the ABS, stability-control, or steering warning light appears, stop and inspect the wheel-speed sensor wiring before continuing.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹45,000-₹85,000, approximately $540-$1,020, including parts, labor, and alignment

DIY Cost: ₹24,000-₹48,000, approximately $290-$575, for parts and alignment

You Save: ₹21,000-₹37,000, approximately $250-$445, by doing it yourself!

Local labor and imported-part prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.


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