🔧 Tundra - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

Your Tundra uses front coil-over shock assemblies, commonly called struts. This procedure replaces them as complete preassembled units, avoiding the serious hazards of compressing the coil springs.

Assumption: This guide covers both front assemblies; the rear uses separate shock absorbers.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Use complete, preassembled strut assemblies. Do not remove the center shaft nut or disassemble the coil spring at home.
• ⚠️ Support your Tundra with properly rated jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Keep a floor jack beneath the lower control arm during removal. The control arm can move suddenly when the strut is released.
• ⚠️ Replace both front strut assemblies together so ride height and handling remain balanced.
• ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle pull on the brake hose, ABS sensor wire, or CV axle.
• ⚠️ Final tightening of suspension fasteners requires a calibrated torque wrench.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnection is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 3-ton floor jack
• 3-ton jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 30-150 ft-lbs
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 14mm deep socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm deep socket
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm combination wrench
• 22mm combination wrench
• 6mm hex-bit socket
• 6-inch socket extension
• 12-inch socket extension
• Medium pry bar
• 16-ounce dead-blow hammer
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Complete front strut assemblies - Qty: 2 - Replace in pairs
• Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Front strut lower mounting bolt and nut sets - Qty: 2
• Front stabilizer-link lock nuts - Qty: 2
• Penetrating oil - Qty: 1 can

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📋 Before You Begin

• 📍 Park your Tundra on solid, level ground. Shift to Park and apply the parking brake.
• 🛞 Place wheel chocks firmly behind both rear tires.
• 📏 Compare each new assembly with the original side. Confirm the upper mount, lower eyelet, spring position, and left/right orientation match.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to identify the left and right assemblies before installation.
• 🔩 A loaded strut is a replacement assembly supplied with the spring and upper mount already installed.
• 🚫 No infotainment setting, scan-tool command, battery registration, or electronic calibration mode is needed before this repair.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Nuts

• Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut about one-half turn.
• Do not remove the nuts while the tires are still supporting the vehicle.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

• Use the 3-ton floor jack beneath the front frame crossmember to raise your Tundra.
• Position the 3-ton jack stands beneath the left and right frame rails, then lower the vehicle onto them.
• Gently push the body to confirm it is stable before working underneath.
• Leave the floor jack touching the crossmember.

Step 3: Remove Both Front Wheels

• Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the wheel nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and slide them beneath the frame as an additional safety measure.

Step 4: Inspect and Treat the Fasteners

• Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use the wire brush to clean the exposed threads on the lower strut bolts and stabilizer-link studs.
• Apply penetrating oil to those threads and allow several minutes for it to work.
• Keep penetrating oil away from brake rotors and pads.

Step 5: Disconnect the Stabilizer Links

• Use the 17mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the stabilizer-link nut from each side.
• If a link stud spins, hold its center with the 6mm hex-bit socket while turning the nut with the 17mm combination wrench.
• Move the links clear of the stabilizer bar. Disconnecting both sides lets the suspension move independently.
• A stabilizer link is the short joint connecting the suspension to the anti-roll bar.

Step 6: Support the Lower Control Arm

• Place the 3-ton floor jack beneath the outer portion of the lower control arm.
• Raise it only enough to support the arm. Do not lift your Tundra off the jack stand.
• The lower control arm is the large suspension arm below the strut.

Step 7: Remove the Lower Strut Bolt

• Use the 22mm deep socket, 1/2-inch drive breaker bar, and 22mm combination wrench to loosen and remove the lower strut bolt and nut.
• Adjust the 3-ton floor jack slightly if the bolt is under tension.
• If necessary, tap the bolt out gently with the 16-ounce dead-blow hammer.
• Do not strike the bolt threads with a steel hammer.

Step 8: Remove the Upper Mounting Nuts

• Support the strut with one hand.
• From inside the engine compartment, use the 14mm deep socket, 6-inch socket extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper mounting nuts.
• Do not loosen the center shaft nut. It retains the compressed coil spring.
• Lower the 3-ton floor jack slowly until there is enough clearance to remove the assembly.

Step 9: Remove the Old Assembly

• Guide the lower end outward while lowering the assembly through the wheel opening.
• Use the medium pry bar only for gentle control-arm movement if additional clearance is needed.
• Watch the brake hose, ABS sensor wire, and CV axle throughout removal.
• Photograph the original mount orientation before removal.

Step 10: Position the New Assembly

• Verify the correct left- or right-side assembly using the paint marker identification made earlier.
• Guide the new assembly upward and insert its three upper studs through the body mounting holes.
• Install the new upper nuts by hand. Use the 14mm deep socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet only to make them snug.
• Do not fully tighten them yet.

Step 11: Install the Lower Strut Bolt

• Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise or lower the control arm until the lower mounting holes align.
• Insert the new lower bolt in the same direction as the original and install its nut by hand.
• Use the 22mm deep socket, 22mm combination wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lower fastener to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Tighten the Upper Mount

• Use the 14mm deep socket, 6-inch socket extension, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the three upper mounting nuts evenly.
• Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Do not apply torque to the center shaft nut.

Step 13: Repeat on the Opposite Side

• Use the same listed tools and repeat Steps 6 through 12 on the other side.
• Keep the removed assemblies separated so their orientation can be checked if needed.

Step 14: Reconnect the Stabilizer Links

• Use the 3-ton floor jack under either lower control arm as needed to align the stabilizer link.
• Start each new lock nut by hand to prevent cross-threading.
• Use the 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten each stabilizer-link nut to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).
• If the stud spins, hold it with the 6mm hex-bit socket while tightening with the 17mm combination wrench.

Step 15: Install the Wheels

• Place each wheel on the hub and install the nuts by hand.
• Use the 22mm deep socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the nuts in a crossing pattern.
• Do not apply final torque while your Tundra is on the jack stands.

Step 16: Lower and Torque the Wheels

• Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise your Tundra slightly, remove the 3-ton jack stands, and lower it completely.
• Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crossing pattern.
• Torque to 131 Nm (97 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Look through both wheel openings and confirm all fasteners are installed, the springs are seated correctly, and no hose or wire is stretched.
• ✅ Press down firmly on each front corner. The body should rise and settle without clunking.
• ✅ Start with a slow test drive. Listen for knocking and confirm the steering returns normally.
• ✅ Arrange a four-wheel alignment immediately. Strut replacement can change front camber and toe even when alignment bolts were not disturbed.
• ✅ Avoid highway speeds until the alignment is completed.
• ✅ Recheck wheel-nut torque after approximately 80-160 km.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center, the vehicle pulls, or warning lights appear, stop driving and have the installation inspected.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹55,000-₹1,20,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹38,000-₹90,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹12,000-₹30,000 by doing it yourself!

Local labor and imported-part pricing vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours, plus wheel alignment.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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