🔧 Fit - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This procedure replaces both front struts on your Fit using complete, preassembled strut units. Complete assemblies are safest for a beginner because the coil spring is already installed and compressed.

Assumption: “Struts” means both front complete strut assemblies.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so handling and braking remain balanced.
• ⚠️ Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack; use properly positioned jack stands.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen the large center shaft nut on the strut mount. The compressed coil spring can release with lethal force.
• ⚠️ Use complete preassembled struts. Servicing a bare strut requires a professional wall-mounted spring compressor.
• ⚠️ Support the steering knuckle after disconnecting the strut so the brake hose and CV axle are not damaged.
• ⚠️ Keep grease and oil away from the brake rotor and pads.
• Battery disconnection is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm deep socket
• 17mm socket
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm deep socket
• 6mm hex-bit socket
• 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench rated 20-150 Nm
• Flat-blade trim tool
• Medium pry bar
• Ball-peen hammer (16-ounce)
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Mechanic’s wire rated 45 kg minimum
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic’s gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-steering-knuckle self-locking nuts - Qty: 4
• Front stabilizer-link self-locking nuts - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut-mount nuts - Qty: 6

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Fit on firm, level ground. Select Park or first gear, apply the parking brake, and switch the ignition off.
• Place wheel chocks securely behind both rear wheels.
• Open the hood before lifting the vehicle.
• Verify that the replacement assemblies are marked left and right. Brackets must face the same directions as the original units.
• Arrange a four-wheel alignment immediately after replacement. Strut removal changes front camber and toe.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Nuts

• Use a 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut about one-half turn.
• Do not remove the wheel nuts while your Fit is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use the 2-ton floor jack at the front center jacking point beneath the engine-area subframe.
• Position 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced left and right front side support points.
• Lower your Fit onto the stands and gently push the body to verify stability.
• Use the 19mm deep socket and ratchet to remove the wheel nuts and both front wheels.

Step 3: Mark the Strut and Knuckle Position

• Use a paint marker to trace around the strut where it meets the steering knuckle. The steering knuckle is the metal wheel-support component behind the brake rotor.
• Mark the upper and lower bolt positions as a reference for reassembly.
• These marks help preserve the original alignment.

Step 4: Disconnect the Brake Hose and ABS Wire

• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the brake-hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• Use a flat-blade trim tool to carefully release the ABS wheel-speed sensor wire clip from its strut bracket.
• Do not open the brake hydraulic line or pull on the ABS wire.
• During installation, tighten the brake-hose bracket bolt to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Disconnect the Stabilizer Link

• Spray the stabilizer-link nut threads lightly with penetrating oil.
• Use a 17mm combination wrench to turn the link nut. If the stud spins, hold its center with a 6mm hex-bit socket.
• Move the link stud out of the strut bracket without bending it.
• During installation, fit a new self-locking nut and tighten it to 38 Nm (28 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Place the 2-ton floor jack beneath the steering knuckle and raise it only enough to support its weight.
• Use mechanic’s wire to loosely support the knuckle from a solid body or subframe point.
• Do not lift against the brake rotor, dust shield, or CV axle.

Step 7: Remove the Strut-to-Knuckle Fasteners

• Use a 19mm deep socket and breaker bar on the two strut-to-knuckle nuts while holding each bolt head with a 19mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both nuts. Use a 16-ounce ball-peen hammer to tap the bolt ends until the bolts slide out.
• Use a medium pry bar only between the strut bracket and knuckle if gentle separation is needed.
• Keep the knuckle supported so it cannot pull outward and separate the inner CV joint.
• During installation, use new self-locking nuts and tighten both fasteners to 116 Nm (86 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Remove the Upper Mount Nuts

• Support the strut assembly with one hand from inside the wheel opening.
• Under the hood, use a 14mm deep socket and ratchet to remove the three small upper strut-mount nuts.
• Do not loosen the large center shaft nut.
• Lower the complete strut assembly carefully through the wheel opening.
• During installation, tighten the three upper mount nuts evenly to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Compare and Install the New Assembly

• Place the old and new assemblies beside each other. Confirm equal overall layout and matching brake-hose, ABS-wire, and stabilizer-link brackets.
• Guide the new assembly into the strut tower without scraping the painted body.
• Install the three new upper mount nuts by hand. Use the 14mm deep socket only after every nut threads smoothly.
• Leave the upper nuts slightly loose until the lower strut bolts are installed.

Step 10: Attach the Strut to the Knuckle

• Use the 2-ton floor jack to adjust knuckle height until its holes align with the strut bracket.
• Insert both original bolts in their original directions and install new self-locking nuts.
• Align the paint marks. Use two 19mm sockets with the torque wrench and ratchet to tighten both fasteners to 116 Nm (86 ft-lbs).
• Use the 14mm deep socket and torque wrench to tighten the three upper mount nuts evenly to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reconnect the Link, Hose, and ABS Wire

• Insert the stabilizer-link stud into its bracket. Use the 17mm socket, 17mm wrench, and 6mm hex-bit socket as needed, then tighten the new nut to 38 Nm (28 ft-lbs).
• Position the brake hose without twisting it. Use the 12mm socket and torque wrench to tighten its bracket bolt to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs).
• Use your gloved fingers to press the ABS-wire clip fully into its bracket.
• Remove the mechanic’s wire and lower the floor jack from beneath the knuckle.

Step 12: Repeat on the Opposite Side

• Repeat Steps 3 through 11 for the other front strut using the same listed tools and torque values.
• Install the correct left- or right-side assembly. Do not interchange sides.

Step 13: Reinstall the Wheels

• Clean the wheel-to-hub contact surfaces with a gloved hand and dry cloth.
• Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
• Use the 19mm deep socket and ratchet to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
• Raise your Fit with the 2-ton floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower it until the tires contact the ground.
• Use the 19mm deep socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while stationary. Listen for binding, spring popping, or contact with a brake hose or ABS wire.
• Drive slowly in a safe area. Confirm normal steering response and verify that no warning lights appear.
• Stop immediately if the steering wheel is severely off-center, the vehicle pulls strongly, or knocking develops.
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed before normal driving to prevent poor handling and rapid tire wear.
• Ask the alignment shop to inspect front camber and toe and confirm that the steering wheel is centered.
• Recheck wheel-nut torque at 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) after approximately 80-160 km.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹32,000-₹58,000 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: ₹18,000-₹38,000 (parts + alignment)

You Save: ₹10,000-₹20,000 by doing it yourself!

Labor rates around Sonīpat vary by workshop. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours, plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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