How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2025 Honda Ridgeline (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2025 Honda Ridgeline (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
🔧 Ridgeline - Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement
This repair replaces both front brake rotors and the complete front brake pad set. The caliper pistons must be compressed carefully, and all mounting bolts must be tightened to Honda specifications.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Ridgeline with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Replace front pads and rotors on both sides to maintain even braking.
- ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not use compressed air to clean brake components.
- ⚠️ Brake cleaner is flammable. Work outside or in a well-ventilated area away from sparks.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Hang each caliper securely. Never allow its weight to pull on the brake hose.
- 🔋 Battery disconnection is not required for this front-brake repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 22mm deep socket
- 14mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
- Phillips No. 3 impact screwdriver
- Ball-peen hammer, 16-ounce
- M8-1.25 rotor-removal bolts, 30mm minimum length (specialty)
- Disc-brake piston compression tool (specialty)
- Brake caliper hanger (specialty)
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Soft brass wire brush
- Brake-fluid syringe (specialty)
- Drain pan, 2-litre minimum
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Nitrile mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set with shims - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Qty: 2 — replace in pairs
- Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotor retaining screws - Qty: 2 if damaged
- Honda-compatible silicone brake grease - Qty: 1 tube
- Molybdenum brake pad lubricant - Qty: 1 packet
- Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 sealed 355ml bottle if needed
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Ridgeline on level, solid ground. Select Park, apply the parking brake, and switch off the engine.
- 🔒 Place wheel chocks firmly behind both rear wheels.
- 🌡️ Allow the brakes to cool completely before touching them.
- 📱 No infotainment service mode or scan-tool command is required for the front brakes.
- 🧴 Open the brake-fluid reservoir under the hood and check its level. If it is near MAX, use a brake-fluid syringe to remove a small amount so it cannot overflow when the pistons are compressed.
- 🧼 Keep brake fluid away from paint. Wipe spills immediately and rinse with water.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Nuts
- Use a 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut approximately one-half turn.
- Do not remove the wheel nuts while your Ridgeline is still on the ground.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front
- Use the 2-ton floor jack at the approved front-center lifting point on the front subframe.
- Place 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced front side support points.
- Lower your Ridgeline slowly onto the stands, then gently push the body to confirm it is stable.
- Keep the floor jack lightly touching the lift point.
Step 3: Remove Both Front Wheels
- Use the 22mm deep socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
- Remove both front wheels and slide them beneath the sides of your Ridgeline as additional protection.
Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper
- Turn the steering wheel to provide better access to the caliper bolts on the side being serviced.
- Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper away from the pads. Use the brake caliper hanger to suspend it from the suspension spring.
- A guide pin is the smooth sliding pin that lets the caliper move as the brakes are applied.
- Do not disconnect the brake hose.
Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads
- Pull the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
- Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the stainless-steel pad clips from the bracket.
- Note the position of the pad wear indicator before removal. Install the new indicator-equipped pad in the same inner-pad position.
- Place the caliper over the drain pan if any fluid or residue is present.
Step 6: Compress the Caliper Pistons
- Place an old brake pad across both caliper pistons.
- Use the disc-brake piston compression tool to push both pistons inward slowly and evenly.
- Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the pistons. Use the brake-fluid syringe if the fluid approaches the top.
- Stop if either piston binds, tilts, or the rubber dust boot folds inward.
Step 7: Remove the Caliper Bracket
- Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper-bracket bolts.
- Lift the bracket away from the rotor.
- Keep the bolts clean and inspect their threads for damage.
Step 8: Remove the Old Rotor
- Use a Phillips No. 3 impact screwdriver and 16-ounce ball-peen hammer to loosen the rotor retaining screw.
- If the rotor is stuck, thread the two M8-1.25 rotor-removal bolts evenly into the rotor’s threaded extraction holes.
- Use a 3/8-inch ratchet to turn each removal bolt a few turns at a time until the rotor releases.
- Do not strike the wheel studs or hub bearing.
Step 9: Clean the Hub and New Rotor
- Use the soft brass wire brush to remove rust and scale from the hub face.
- The hub face must be flat and clean so the new rotor does not wobble.
- Hold the new rotor over the drain pan and clean both braking surfaces with non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
- Wipe away the shipping oil with a clean disposable towel.
Step 10: Install the New Rotor
- Slide the cleaned rotor over the wheel studs and align its retaining-screw hole.
- Install the retaining screw with the Phillips No. 3 impact screwdriver.
- Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs) if your torque wrench and bit arrangement can accurately reach this value.
- Do not overtighten the small retaining screw.
Step 11: Service the Caliper Bracket
- Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to pull each guide pin from the bracket, one at a time.
- Wipe each pin clean and inspect it for rust, pitting, or bending.
- Apply a thin coat of Honda-compatible silicone brake grease and reinstall each pin in its original position.
- Confirm the rubber boots seat fully and both pins slide smoothly.
- Use the soft brass wire brush to clean the pad-clip seating areas on the bracket.
Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket
- Position the bracket over the new rotor and start both mounting bolts by hand.
- Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten both bracket bolts.
- Torque to 137 Nm (101 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Install the New Hardware and Pads
- Press the new stainless-steel pad clips fully into the cleaned bracket by hand.
- Apply a very thin film of molybdenum brake pad lubricant only where the pad ears contact the clips and where specified on the backs of the shims.
- Do not place grease on the rotor or pad friction material.
- Slide the inner and outer pads into the bracket. Confirm they move without binding.
- A thin lubricant film is enough.
Step 14: Reinstall the Caliper
- Lower the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
- Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- Use the 14mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the guide-pin bolts.
- Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).
- Remove the brake caliper hanger.
Step 15: Repeat on the Opposite Side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the other front wheel.
- Use the same tools and torque specifications.
- Verify that both brake hoses follow their original routing and are not twisted.
Step 16: Reinstall the Wheels
- Place each wheel onto its hub and install all wheel nuts by hand.
- Use the 22mm deep socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
- Use the 2-ton floor jack to lift your Ridgeline slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it until the tyres touch the ground.
- Use the 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern.
- Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).
Step 17: Restore Brake Pedal Pressure
- Before starting the engine, press and release the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
- Do not drive while the pedal feels soft or travels close to the floor.
- Check the reservoir and add fresh DOT 3 brake fluid only if the level is below MAX.
- Install the reservoir cap securely.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and hold firm pressure on the brake pedal for 30 seconds. The pedal should remain stable.
- 🔍 Inspect both front calipers, hoses, and the brake-fluid reservoir for leaks.
- 🚗 Test the brakes at walking speed in a clear, private area before entering traffic.
- 🛑 Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from about 50 km/h to 10 km/h. Allow approximately 30 seconds between stops and do not come to a complete stop with hot brakes clamped.
- 🌡️ Drive for several minutes without heavy braking afterward so the brakes can cool.
- 🔧 Recheck the wheel-nut torque after approximately 80-160 km.
- ⚠️ If your Ridgeline pulls, vibrates, makes grinding noises, or has a soft pedal, stop driving and inspect the work.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹30,000-₹65,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹18,000-₹45,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹12,000-₹20,000 by doing it yourself!
Sonīpat-area labor commonly runs ₹800-₹2,000 per hour, while imported US-market Ridgeline parts can significantly affect the total. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
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