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2018 Nissan Sentra
2017 - 2019 Nissan Sentra
S Inline 4 1.8L
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  • Nissan Sentra
  • 2018
  • How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2019 Nissan Sentra (Trim: S | Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
Nissan Sentra Front Brake Pads and Rotor replacment 2013-2018

Nissan Sentra Front Brake Pads and Rotor replacment 2013-2018

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2019 Nissan Sentra (Trim: S | Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2019 Nissan Sentra (Trim: S | Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Sentra - Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the front brake pads and both front rotors on your Sentra. Work on one side at a time so the assembled side remains available as a reference.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

Assumption: Factory-size front brakes and original-style calipers are installed.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Sentra with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • 🛑 Replace front pads and rotors on both sides to maintain even braking.
  • 🧤 Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it away with compressed air.
  • 🔥 Allow the brakes to cool completely before beginning.
  • 💧 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
  • 🔗 Never let a caliper hang from its rubber brake hose.
  • 🧪 Brake fluid damages paint. Clean spills immediately with water.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnection is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 21mm lug-nut socket
  • 14mm six-point socket
  • 19mm six-point socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs)
  • 6-inch socket extension
  • Flat-blade screwdriver (8-inch)
  • Brake caliper piston compressor (specialty)
  • Brake caliper hanger (specialty)
  • Rubber mallet (16-ounce)
  • M8 x 1.25 rotor-removal bolts (specialty)
  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks (rubber)
  • Drain pan (2-quart minimum)
  • Wire brush (handheld)
  • Brake-parts cleaning brush (nylon)
  • Disposable shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set with hardware - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • Aerosol brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 pint

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🚗 Park your Sentra on firm, level ground. Shift into first gear, apply the parking brake, and switch off the ignition.
  • 🧱 Place wheel chocks securely behind both rear tires.
  • 📝 Check the brake-fluid reservoir under the hood. If it is completely full, remove a small amount with a clean fluid extractor before compressing the caliper pistons.
  • 🔍 Inspect the brake hoses for cracks, wetness, swelling, or exposed reinforcement. Replace a damaged hose before driving.
  • 📱 No infotainment service mode, scan tool, EPB retraction, coding, or battery registration is required.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

  • Use the 21mm lug-nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about one-half turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts while the tires are still carrying the vehicle’s weight.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

  • Position the 2-ton floor jack beneath the front-center subframe lifting point.
  • Raise the front of your Sentra, then place the 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced front side support points.
  • Lower the vehicle onto the stands and gently check that it is stable.
  • Keep the floor jack nearby as secondary support.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

  • Use the 21mm lug-nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
  • Remove both front wheels and slide one wheel beneath the rocker-panel area as an extra precaution.

Step 4: Remove the First Brake Caliper

  • Turn the steering wheel so the caliper on the side being serviced faces outward.
  • Place the 2-quart drain pan beneath the brake assembly.
  • Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper slide-pin bolts.
  • Lift the caliper from the bracket. Use the brake caliper hanger to suspend it from the strut spring.
  • A slide pin is the lubricated pin that lets the caliper move sideways as the brakes apply.
  • Do not twist, stretch, or support the caliper by its brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads

  • Pull the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use the flat-blade screwdriver to carefully release the stainless pad-support clips.
  • Note the location of the inner pad’s wear indicator before discarding the old pads.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

  • Use the 19mm socket, 6-inch extension, and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper-bracket bolts behind the steering knuckle.
  • Remove the bracket and place it on a clean surface.

Step 7: Remove the Old Rotor

  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
  • If rust has seized it in place, thread two M8 x 1.25 rotor-removal bolts evenly into the rotor’s extraction holes using a 3/8-inch ratchet. Alternate between the bolts until the rotor releases.
  • If extraction holes are unavailable, strike only the rotor hat between the wheel studs using the 16-ounce rubber mallet.
  • Do not hit the wheel studs or the hub’s center bore.

Step 8: Clean the Hub and New Rotor

  • Use the handheld wire brush to remove rust and scale from the hub face and center pilot.
  • Wipe the hub clean using disposable shop towels and aerosol brake cleaner.
  • Spray both friction surfaces of the new rotor with aerosol brake cleaner, then dry them with clean disposable shop towels.
  • The hub face must be smooth so the new rotor sits flat and does not wobble.

Step 9: Install the New Rotor

  • Slide the new rotor fully onto the hub by hand.
  • Temporarily install one lug nut by hand to hold the rotor flat while the brake is assembled.
  • Do not get lubricant on either rotor friction surface.

Step 10: Service the Caliper Bracket

  • Use the flat-blade screwdriver to carefully remove both slide pins and their rubber boots from the bracket, one at a time.
  • Clean the pins with disposable shop towels. Replace any pin that is rusted, pitted, or bent.
  • Use the nylon brake-parts cleaning brush and aerosol brake cleaner to clean the pad-contact areas on the bracket.
  • Apply a thin coating of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant to each smooth slide pin, then reinstall the pins and seat the rubber boots.
  • Fit the new stainless pad-support clips by hand.
  • Apply only a very thin film of lubricant where the pad tabs touch the clips. Keep lubricant away from pad and rotor friction surfaces.

Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

  • Position the bracket over the rotor and start both bolts by hand.
  • Use the 19mm socket, 6-inch extension, and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten both bracket bolts evenly.
  • Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Check the brake-fluid reservoir to ensure it will not overflow.
  • Place an old brake pad against the piston, then use the brake caliper piston compressor to push the piston slowly and evenly into the caliper.
  • This front piston presses straight inward; it does not need to be rotated.
  • Stop if the piston binds, tilts, or causes fluid to leak from the caliper.

Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads

  • Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
  • Position the wear indicator in the same location as the original inner pad.
  • Confirm both pads slide freely in the support clips without excessive looseness.

Step 14: Reinstall the Brake Caliper

  • Remove the brake caliper hanger and lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
  • Make sure the brake hose is not twisted.
  • Start both slide-pin bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
  • Use the 14mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten both slide-pin bolts.
  • Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Repeat on the Opposite Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the other front brake using the same listed tools.
  • Before installing the wheel, visually verify that every bracket bolt and slide-pin bolt is installed and tightened.

Step 16: Reinstall the Wheels

  • Remove the temporary lug nut and install each wheel by hand.
  • Start every lug nut by hand, then snug them in a crisscross pattern using the 21mm lug-nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet.
  • Use the 2-ton floor jack to raise your Sentra slightly, remove the 2-ton jack stands, and lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
  • Use the 21mm lug-nut socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
  • Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Restore Brake-Pedal Pressure

  • With the engine off, slowly press and release the brake pedal several times until it becomes firm.
  • Do not move your Sentra until the pedal is firm and remains above the floor.
  • Check the brake-fluid reservoir. Add only fresh DOT 3 brake fluid if the level is below the MAX line.

✅ After Repair

  • 🔍 Inspect around both calipers for brake-fluid leaks and verify both hoses are routed without twists.
  • 🛑 Start the engine and hold firm pedal pressure for 30 seconds. The pedal should remain steady rather than sinking.
  • 🚗 Test the brakes at walking speed in a safe, traffic-free area before normal driving.
  • 🌡️ Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 10 km/h. Do not stop completely between applications.
  • ❄️ Drive for 5-10 minutes with minimal braking afterward so the brakes can cool.
  • ⛔ Avoid hard braking and holding the pedal down after a hard stop for the first 300-500 km unless needed for safety.
  • 🔧 Recheck wheel-lug torque after approximately 80-160 km.
  • ⚠️ Do not drive if the pedal remains soft, the vehicle pulls strongly, or fluid is leaking.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$450 by doing it yourself!

Local pricing in Sonīpat may differ due to parts availability and labor rates. Typical dealership-equivalent labor is about 2-3 hours.


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