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2018 Nissan Murano
2015 - 2024 Nissan Murano
Platinum V6 3.5L
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  • Nissan Murano
  • 2018
  • How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2015-2024 Nissan Murano (Trim: Platinum | Engine: V6 3.5L)
How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors | 2015-2024 Nissan Murano

How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors | 2015-2024 Nissan Murano

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Deep Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2015-2024 Nissan Murano (Trim: Platinum | Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2015-2024 Nissan Murano (Trim: Platinum | Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024

Orion
Orion

๐Ÿ”ง Murano - Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the front brake pads and both front rotors on your Murano. Work on one side at a time so the assembled side remains available as a reference.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


โš ๏ธ Safety & Precautions

  • โš ๏ธ Support your Murano with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
  • ๐Ÿ›‘ Replace the front pads and rotors on both sides to maintain even braking.
  • โ™จ๏ธ Let the brakes cool completely before beginning.
  • ๐Ÿงค Brake dust can be harmful. Do not use compressed air; wet the dust with brake cleaner.
  • ๐Ÿ”’ Chock both rear wheels and keep the transmission in Park.
  • ๐Ÿ”ง Never allow the brake caliper to hang from its rubber hose.
  • ๐Ÿ’ง Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
  • ๐Ÿ”‹ Battery disconnection is not required for this front-brake repair.

๐Ÿ”ง Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 3-ton floor jack
  • 3-ton jack stands
  • Rubber wheel chocks
  • 21mm deep socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 10-150 ft-lb torque wrench
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Small wire brush
  • Brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
  • Brake caliper hanger (specialty)
  • Rubber mallet
  • M8 x 1.25 rotor-removal bolts
  • Brake-fluid suction syringe
  • Plastic drain pan
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

๐Ÿ”ฉ Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • High-temperature silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
  • Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 pint

๐Ÿ“‹ Before You Begin

  • ๐Ÿ…ฟ๏ธ Park your Murano on firm, level ground. Shift to Park and chock both rear wheels.
  • ๐Ÿ”“ Release the parking brake after chocking the rear wheels so the vehicle rests naturally before lifting.
  • ๐Ÿงฐ Open the hood and locate the brake-fluid reservoir near the driver-side firewall.
  • ๐Ÿ’ง Use a brake-fluid suction syringe to remove a small amount if the reservoir is near MAX. This prevents overflow when the caliper pistons are compressed.
  • ๐Ÿ“ฑ No infotainment setting, scan-tool command, EPB service mode, coding, or battery registration is required for the front brakes.

๐Ÿ”จ Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the front wheel nuts

  • Use a 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut about one-quarter turn.
  • Do not remove the wheel nuts while your Murano is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and support the front

  • Place the 3-ton floor jack beneath the reinforced front-center lifting point on the front suspension crossmember.
  • Raise the front and position 3-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced front side sill lift points.
  • Lower your Murano onto the stands, leave the floor jack lightly contacting the lifting point, and gently push the body to verify stability.

Step 3: Remove the front wheels

  • Use the 21mm deep socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
  • Remove both front wheels and slide them beneath the side sills as an additional safety measure.

Step 4: Remove the brake caliper

  • Turn the steering wheel to provide better access to the caliper being serviced.
  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper slide-pin bolts.
  • A slide pin allows the caliper to move sideways as the pads wear.
  • Lift the caliper from the bracket. Use the brake caliper hanger to suspend it from the suspension spring.
  • Do not twist, stretch, or support the caliper by its brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully lift the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket.
  • Use the flat-blade screwdriver to remove the stainless-steel pad support clips.
  • Note the location of any wear indicator before removing the pads.
  • Inspect the old pads. Strongly uneven wear can indicate a seized slide pin or sticking caliper.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

  • Place an old brake pad against both caliper pistons.
  • Use the brake caliper piston compression tool to press both pistons inward slowly and evenly.
  • Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the pistons. Use the brake-fluid suction syringe if the level approaches the top.
  • Stop if either piston binds, tilts, or will not retract smoothly. The caliper may require replacement.

Step 7: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper-bracket bolts.
  • Support the bracket while removing the final bolt.
  • Clean the bracket's pad-contact areas with brake cleaner, shop towels, and a small wire brush.

Step 8: Remove the old rotor

  • Pull the rotor straight off the wheel hub.
  • If stuck, install two M8 x 1.25 rotor-removal bolts into the rotor's threaded extraction holes. Tighten them evenly with a suitable socket and 3/8-inch ratchet until the rotor releases.
  • If extraction holes are unavailable, strike only the rotor hat between the wheel studs with a rubber mallet.
  • Do not strike the wheel studs or hub bearing.

Step 9: Clean the hub and new rotor

  • Use brake cleaner, shop towels, and a small wire brush to remove rust and debris from the hub face.
  • Keep the hub face clean and flat. Debris trapped behind the rotor can cause pedal pulsation.
  • Clean both friction surfaces of the new rotor with brake cleaner and shop towels until no oily residue remains.
  • Install the rotor over the wheel studs.
  • A wheel nut can temporarily hold the rotor flat.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Position the caliper bracket over the rotor and start both bolts by hand.
  • Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten both bracket bolts to 165 Nm (122 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Service the slide pins

  • Pull each slide pin from its rubber boot by hand, keeping track of its original position.
  • Wipe the pins clean with shop towels and inspect them for rust, scoring, or bending.
  • Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake grease to each pin, then reinstall it by hand.
  • Make sure each rubber boot seats fully and the pins move smoothly.
  • Do not apply petroleum grease because it can damage the rubber boots.

Step 12: Install the new pads

  • Press the new pad support clips into the bracket by hand. Use a flat-blade screwdriver only if gentle alignment is needed.
  • Apply a very thin film of high-temperature silicone brake grease to the pad ears where they contact the support clips.
  • Keep grease completely off the rotor and pad friction material.
  • Install the inner and outer pads in the same orientation as the originals.

Step 13: Reinstall the caliper

  • Remove the caliper from the brake caliper hanger and place it over the new pads.
  • Verify that the brake hose is not twisted.
  • Start both slide-pin bolts by hand.
  • Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the slide-pin bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Repeat on the other side

  • Use the same tools and procedure to replace the pads and rotor on the opposite front side.
  • Recheck that all four caliper-bracket bolts and all four slide-pin bolts have been tightened to specification.

Step 15: Reinstall the wheels

  • Clean the wheel-to-rotor mounting surfaces with a small wire brush and shop towels.
  • Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
  • Use a 21mm deep socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern.
  • Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise your Murano slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.
  • Use a 21mm deep socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Restore brake-pedal pressure

  • With the engine off, press and release the brake pedal slowly until it becomes firm. This may take several strokes.
  • Do not move your Murano until the pedal feels firm.
  • Check the brake-fluid reservoir. Add fresh DOT 3 brake fluid only as needed, without exceeding the MAX line.

โœ… After Repair

  • ๐Ÿ” Start the engine and hold firm pressure on the brake pedal for 30 seconds. The pedal should remain stable and must not sink toward the floor.
  • ๐Ÿ’ง Inspect both front calipers and brake hoses for leaks.
  • ๐Ÿš— Test the brakes at walking speed in a clear area before entering traffic.
  • ๐Ÿ”ฅ Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate slowdowns from approximately 50 km/h to 15 km/h. Do not stop completely between applications.
  • โ„๏ธ Drive for 5-10 minutes with minimal braking afterward to let the brakes cool.
  • ๐Ÿ›‘ Avoid hard braking and prolonged pedal holding for the first 300-500 km unless required for safety.
  • ๐Ÿ”ง Recheck wheel-nut torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) after approximately 80-160 km.
  • โš ๏ธ If the pedal remains soft, the vehicle pulls strongly, fluid leaks, or grinding continues, do not drive it.

๐Ÿ’ฐ DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: โ‚น28,000-โ‚น55,000 (approximately $335-$660, parts + labor)

DIY Cost: โ‚น14,000-โ‚น32,000 (approximately $170-$385, parts only)

You Save: โ‚น14,000-โ‚น23,000 (approximately $165-$275) by doing it yourself!

Local labor rates and parts availability vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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