🔧 Ridgeline - Engine Mount Replacement

Assumption: This procedure covers the complete four-mount set: right-side engine mount, transmission mount, front active mount, and rear active mount.

Your Ridgeline uses electronically controlled hydraulic front and rear mounts to reduce vibration. Replacing the complete set requires supporting the powertrain, removing obstructing exhaust and chassis parts, and aligning the mounts before tightening them.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never place any part of your body beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Support the engine with an engine support bar. Do not lift directly against the aluminum oil pan.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging the active-control mount connectors.
• ⚠️ Allow the exhaust system to cool completely before beginning.
• ⚠️ Support the front subframe before loosening it. The rear mount cannot be removed safely from an unsupported subframe.
• ⚠️ Do not stretch the steering shaft, hoses, wiring, or exhaust flex joint while lowering the subframe.
• ⚠️ Mount fastener torque varies by mount position and bolt diameter. Use current Honda service information for the exact fastener locations; generic Honda mount torque values must not be substituted.
• ⚠️ This complete-set replacement is not recommended as a first repair without an experienced helper and access to a vehicle lift.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Vehicle lift rated 3-ton minimum
• Engine support bar rated 1,000-pound minimum
• Transmission jack rated 1,000-pound minimum
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-250 Nm
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 10mm combination wrench
• 12mm combination wrench
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• 6-inch socket extension
• 12-inch socket extension
• Universal-joint socket adapter
• Trim-clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Exhaust hanger pliers (specialty)
• Subframe alignment pins (specialty)
• Mechanic’s gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front active-control engine mount - Qty: 1
• Rear active-control engine mount - Qty: 1
• Front exhaust pipe gaskets - Qty: 2
• Self-locking exhaust nuts - Qty: As required
• Replacement mount self-locking nuts - Qty: As required
• Replacement subframe fasteners - Qty: As specified by Honda

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Ridgeline on level ground. Select Park, apply the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Record any saved audio settings that may be lost when the battery is disconnected.
• Open the hood before disconnecting electrical power.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Isolate the cable so it cannot spring back onto the terminal.
• Raise your Ridgeline with the vehicle lift. If a lift is unavailable, use a 3-ton floor jack and place 3-ton jack stands only at Honda-approved support points.
• Use the engine support bar to carry the engine’s weight from above. An engine support bar spans the fenders and holds the engine through its lifting point.
• Use a paint marker to outline the current subframe position against the body before loosening it.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Lower Covers

• Use a trim-clip removal tool and 10mm socket to remove the lower splash shield and front under-cover.
• Sort the clips and bolts by location because their lengths can differ.
• Inspect the area for fluid leaks that could have damaged the old rubber mounts.

Step 2: Support the Powertrain

• Install the 1,000-pound engine support bar across the approved body support areas.
• Connect it to the factory engine lifting point and take up only enough tension to support the engine.
• Position the 1,000-pound transmission jack under the transmission as a secondary support.
• Do not lift the engine noticeably. Excess movement can damage hoses, wiring, and axle joints.

Step 3: Remove the Right-Side Engine Mount

• Use a 10mm socket and trim-clip removal tool to move any intake ducting or wiring retainers blocking the mount.
• Use the correctly fitting 14mm or 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-body fasteners and through-bolt.
• Adjust the engine support bar slightly until the through-bolt slides out without binding.
• Remove the mount and compare its locating tabs and bracket shape with the replacement.
• Install the new mount loosely. Do not apply final torque while the powertrain is raised or pulled sideways.

Step 4: Replace the Transmission Mount

• Support the transmission securely with the transmission jack.
• Use a 10mm socket to release nearby harness brackets without pulling on the wiring.
• Use the correctly fitting 14mm or 17mm socket to remove the mount through-bolt and body fasteners.
• Raise or lower the transmission only a few millimeters until the old mount can be removed.
• Install the replacement mount in the same orientation and start every fastener by hand.
• Leave the fasteners slightly loose until all four mounts are installed and the powertrain is centered.

Step 5: Remove the Front Exhaust Section

• Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust flange nuts and allow it to soak.
• Use a 14mm socket, breaker bar, and extensions to remove the flange nuts.
• Use exhaust hanger pliers to release the rubber hangers while supporting the exhaust with the transmission jack.
• Lower the exhaust carefully. Do not bend the oxygen-sensor wires or flex joint.
• Discard compressed exhaust gaskets and self-locking nuts if Honda specifies one-time replacement.

Step 6: Replace the Front Active Mount

• Locate the electrical connector on the front mount. The active mount contains an electrically controlled valve that changes mount stiffness.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to release the connector lock, then disconnect it by holding the connector housing rather than pulling the wires.
• Use the correctly fitting 14mm or 17mm socket to remove the mount fasteners.
• Adjust the engine support bar slightly to unload the mount, then remove it.
• Install the new active mount with its connector facing the original direction.
• Start all fasteners by hand and reconnect the electrical connector until its lock clicks.

Step 7: Support and Lower the Front Subframe

• Support the subframe evenly with the transmission jack.
• Use a paint marker to verify the original alignment marks remain visible.
• Check that the steering shaft, brake hoses, wiring, and air-conditioning lines have enough slack.
• Use the correctly fitting 17mm, 19mm, or 22mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the subframe bolts gradually.
• Install subframe alignment pins before fully removing the required bolts.
• Lower the subframe only as far as necessary to access the rear mount.

Step 8: Replace the Rear Active Mount

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to unlock the rear active-mount electrical connector, then unplug it by its housing.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket with extensions and a universal-joint adapter to remove the rear mount fasteners.
• Adjust the engine support bar slightly until the mount is unloaded.
• Remove the rear mount without trapping the wiring between the mount and bracket.
• Install the replacement mount in the original orientation and start all fasteners by hand.
• Reconnect the electrical connector and confirm the harness is clipped away from the exhaust.

Step 9: Align the Powertrain and Tighten the Mounts

• Raise the subframe against the alignment pins and paint marks using the transmission jack.
• Install every subframe bolt by hand before tightening any one bolt fully.
• Set your torque wrench to each fastener’s exact Honda service specification and tighten in the Honda sequence.
• Lower the engine support bar gradually until the engine’s full weight rests naturally on all four mounts.
• Rock the powertrain gently by hand to remove preload. Preload means a mount is being held twisted before tightening.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten each mount through-bolt, mount nut, bracket bolt, and body bolt to its position-specific Honda specification.
• Do not use a single universal torque value; these fasteners have different specified torques.
• Tighten only after every mount sits naturally.

Step 10: Reinstall the Exhaust and Covers

• Fit new exhaust gaskets and raise the exhaust with the transmission jack.
• Use exhaust hanger pliers to reinstall the rubber hangers.
• Install new self-locking exhaust nuts and use the torque wrench to tighten them to the exact Honda flange specification.
• Check that the exhaust does not contact the subframe, heat shields, or mounts.
• Use a 10mm socket and trim-clip removal tool to reinstall the lower covers.

Step 11: Reconnect the Battery

• Confirm that all tools have been removed from the engine compartment.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery terminal securely.
• Do not overtighten the small terminal fastener.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine while holding the brake pedal. Listen for knocking and watch for excessive movement.
• With a helper holding the brake firmly, shift slowly through Park, Reverse, Neutral, and Drive. Do not apply throttle.
• Confirm that no active-mount, emissions, or powertrain warning light appears.
• Check beneath your Ridgeline for an exhaust leak. Keep hands away from the hot exhaust.
• Verify that vibration at idle is reduced and that no clunk occurs when changing direction.
• Perform a short, low-speed road test. Stop immediately if you hear heavy knocking, exhaust contact, or steering binding.
• Have the front wheel alignment checked because the subframe was loosened.
• If a warning light appears, scan the vehicle for diagnostic trouble codes before driving farther.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $2,200-$3,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $750-$1,500 (parts only)

You Save: $1,450-$2,300 by doing it yourself!

Local labor rates vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.