🔧 Fit - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Fit uses multiple mounts: a right-side engine mount, a left-side transmission mount, and a rear lower torque mount. Replacing all of them requires supporting the powertrain, removing each mount one at a time, and keeping the engine correctly aligned.

Assumption: This procedure covers the complete mount set; transmission-mount hardware differs between the CVT and 6-speed manual.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never remove more than one mount at a time. The remaining mounts keep the powertrain from shifting or falling.
• ⚠️ Support the engine from above with an engine support bar. Do not place a jack directly beneath the aluminum oil pan.
• ⚠️ Keep hands away from gaps between the engine, transmission, and body while changing engine height.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle only at Honda-approved lifting points and place it securely on jack stands.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before removing the battery tray or transmission mount.
• ⚠️ Mount fasteners are safety-critical. Because Honda uses transmission-specific fasteners and torque values, obtain the applicable Honda service-information torque chart before beginning.
• ⚠️ Do not drive your Fit if a mount bracket is cracked or the engine moves far enough to pull on hoses, wiring, or the exhaust.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Engine support bar rated 500kg minimum (specialty)
• Engine lifting-chain set rated 500kg minimum (specialty)
• Hydraulic floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 3/8-inch-drive metric socket set, 8-19mm
• 1/2-inch-drive metric socket set, 14-19mm
• 10mm deep socket
• 12mm deep socket
• 14mm deep socket
• 17mm deep socket
• 19mm deep socket
• 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch-drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar, 450mm minimum
• 3/8-inch-drive extension set, 75-250mm
• 1/2-inch-drive extension set, 75-250mm
• Metric combination wrench set, 8-19mm
• Torque wrench rated 10-80Nm
• Torque wrench rated 40-200Nm
• Trim-clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver, 6mm
• Plastic drain pan, 8-litre minimum
• Paint marker, white
• LED work light
• Mechanic’s gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transmission mount matched to CVT or 6-speed manual - Qty: 1
• Rear lower torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine-mount flange nuts and bolts specified as non-reusable by Honda - Qty: 1 set
• Transmission-mount flange nuts and bolts specified as non-reusable by Honda - Qty: 1 set
• Rear-mount flange nuts and bolts specified as non-reusable by Honda - Qty: 1 set
• Damaged splash-shield clips - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• 📋 Park your Fit on firm, level ground. Select Park on a CVT or first gear on a manual, apply the parking brake, and chock both rear wheels.
• 📋 Open the bonnet and allow the engine and exhaust to cool completely.
• 📋 Photograph each mount, bracket, ground cable, and wiring clip before removal.
• 📋 Obtain the Honda service-information torque table matching the installed transmission. The CVT and manual transmission mounts are not interchangeable.
• 📋 An engine support bar spans the inner fender structure and holds the engine from above. Install it only at the designated engine lifting eye.
• 📋 Keep every removed fastener grouped with its original mount. Do not substitute ordinary hardware.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery-terminal nut.
• Lift the negative terminal from the battery and position it where it cannot spring back.
• Use a 10mm deep socket to remove the battery hold-down, followed by the positive terminal.
• Lift out the battery with both hands and keep it upright.
• Battery-terminal torque during installation: 5.4Nm (48in-lbs)

Step 2: Raise and secure the vehicle

• Place the hydraulic floor jack under the front centre lifting point.
• Raise the front and position both 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced side lifting points.
• Lower the vehicle onto the stands and gently push the body to confirm stability.
• Use a trim-clip removal tool and flat-blade screwdriver to remove the lower splash shield.
• Arrange clips in their removal order.

Step 3: Support the powertrain

• Position the 500kg engine support bar across the approved upper body supports.
• Attach the 500kg lifting chain to the factory engine lifting eye.
• Tighten the support-bar adjuster only until the chain is snug. Do not lift the vehicle.
• Use a paint marker to mark the current engine position relative to each mount bracket.
• Check that hoses, wiring, the intake tube, and the exhaust are not under tension.

Step 4: Replace the right-side engine mount

• Use the appropriate 10mm or 12mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to remove obstructing intake duct fasteners and wiring brackets.
• Use a 17mm deep socket, 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar, and extension as required to loosen the mount-to-engine and mount-to-body fasteners.
• Adjust the engine support bar by only a few millimetres until the fasteners slide freely.
• Remove the mount while noting its orientation. Do not pry against refrigerant lines.
• Compare the replacement mount with the original, including locating tabs and stud positions.
• Position the new mount and install every fastener finger-tight.
• Align the paint marks by making small adjustments with the engine support bar.
• Use the correct torque wrench to tighten the fasteners in the sequence and to the values listed in the transmission-specific Honda service torque table.
• Do not use generic torque values for these mount fasteners.

Step 5: Expose the transmission mount

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to remove the battery tray fasteners.
• Use a trim-clip removal tool to release wiring-harness clips without pulling on the wires.
• On CVT-equipped vehicles, keep dirt away from the transmission breather and connectors.
• On manual-equipped vehicles, do not pull or rest tools against the clutch hydraulic line or shift cables.
• Confirm that the engine support chain remains centred and tight.

Step 6: Replace the left-side transmission mount

• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket, extension, and 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar to loosen the transmission-mount fasteners.
• Adjust the engine support bar slightly until the mount carries no visible load.
• Remove the mount and compare its bracket shape and locating tabs with the replacement.
• Install the transmission-correct replacement mount and start all fasteners by hand.
• Do not force a bolt through a misaligned hole. Adjust the support bar until it threads smoothly.
• Use the correct torque wrench to tighten the fasteners in the sequence and to the values listed in the applicable Honda CVT or manual-transmission service torque table.
• Do not interchange CVT and manual transmission-mount torque data.

Step 7: Replace the rear lower torque mount

• Work from beneath the vehicle only after confirming both jack stands are secure.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket, 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar, and extension to loosen the rear-mount fasteners.
• A torque mount limits front-to-back engine movement during acceleration and braking.
• Adjust the engine support bar slightly to remove pressure from the through-bolt.
• Remove the through-bolt and bracket fasteners, then lower the mount from its bracket.
• Install the replacement in the same orientation and insert every fastener by hand.
• Use the correct torque wrench to tighten the fasteners in the sequence and to the values listed in the transmission-specific Honda service torque table.
• Check that the mount is not twisted before final tightening.

Step 8: Check engine alignment

• Use the LED work light to inspect all three mounts.
• Confirm that each locating pin is seated and no rubber mount is stretched or twisted.
• Check that hoses, ground cables, wiring, shift cables, and the exhaust have normal clearance.
• Slowly release tension from the engine support bar while watching all mounts.
• If the engine shifts suddenly, retension the support bar and correct the alignment before continuing.

Step 9: Reassemble the engine compartment

• Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench to reinstall the battery tray and removed brackets to the Honda service-information values.
• Use a 10mm or 12mm socket to reinstall the intake duct and wiring retainers.
• Install the battery, positive terminal, hold-down, and negative terminal in that order.
• Use the low-range torque wrench to tighten both battery terminals to 5.4Nm (48in-lbs).
• Secure the battery hold-down evenly without deforming the battery case.

Step 10: Reinstall the lower shield

• Use the trim-clip removal tool by hand to install reusable clips and replace any damaged clips.
• Use the appropriate socket or flat-blade screwdriver to install the lower-shield fasteners.
• Raise your Fit slightly with the hydraulic floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower it slowly.
• Remove the wheel chocks only after the vehicle is fully on the ground.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ With the bonnet open and parking brake applied, start the engine and watch for excessive movement. Keep hands and tools away from moving parts.
• ✅ Switch the air conditioning on and off. A small engine movement is normal; knocking or metal contact is not.
• ✅ Hold the brake firmly and move a CVT slowly through Reverse, Neutral, and Drive. For a manual, check idle vibration and clutch engagement during a careful road test.
• ✅ Stop immediately if you hear clunks, feel severe vibration, or see a hose, cable, or wire being pulled.
• ✅ Recheck the battery connections, mount alignment, splash shield, and visible fasteners after the test drive.
• ✅ The clock and saved audio settings may need to be restored after battery disconnection.
• ✅ No battery registration or mount coding is required on your Fit.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹30,000-₹65,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹14,000-₹35,000 (parts only, excluding an engine support bar)

You Save: ₹16,000-₹30,000 by doing it yourself!

Local labor rates vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours, and imported genuine or premium mounts can substantially increase the total.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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