🔧 Forte - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Forte uses an upper passenger-side engine mount, an upper transmission mount, and front and rear lower roll-stop mounts. Replacing the complete set requires supporting the powertrain, removing each mount individually, and keeping the engine aligned so the new mounts are not twisted or preloaded.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

Assumption: This procedure covers the stock 2.0L engine with either factory transmission; compare each replacement mount with the removed mount before installation.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the powertrain before loosening any mount. Never work beneath an engine supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Raise the engine only enough to remove its weight from the mount. Excessive movement can damage hoses, wiring, exhaust parts, and drive axles.
• ⚠️ Place a hardwood block between the jack and oil pan to spread the load. Never position the jack beneath the drain plug.
• ⚠️ Replace only one mount at a time so the remaining mounts keep the powertrain aligned.
• ⚠️ Allow the engine and exhaust system to cool completely.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before removing the battery tray or transmission mount.
• ⚠️ Do not start your Forte while any mount is loose or removed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3-inch socket extension
• 6-inch socket extension
• 12-inch socket extension
• 10-100 Nm torque wrench
• 40-200 Nm torque wrench
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Plastic trim-clip removal tool
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Hardwood support block approximately 25mm thick
• Portable work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Passenger-side upper engine mount - Qty: 1
• Driver-side upper transmission mount matched to transmission type - Qty: 1
• Front lower roll-stop mount - Qty: 1
• Rear lower roll-stop mount - Qty: 1
• Replacement mount fasteners specified as single-use - Qty: As required

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📋 Before You Begin

• 📋 Park your Forte on firm, level ground. Shift to Park or first gear, engage the parking brake, and switch off the ignition.
• 📋 Open the hood and let the engine cool. Record radio presets if desired; no infotainment service mode is required.
• 📋 Place wheel chocks securely behind both rear wheels.
• 📋 Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery-terminal nut. Disconnect and isolate the cable.
• 📋 Inspect all new mounts. Their brackets, studs, locating tabs, and electrical connectors, if equipped, must match the original parts.
• 📋 A roll-stop mount is the lower mount that limits front-to-rear engine movement during acceleration and braking.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the front

• Place the floor jack beneath the front-center lifting point and raise your Forte.
• Position the 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced side support points. Lower the vehicle onto them and confirm it is stable.
• Use the plastic trim-clip removal tool and 10mm socket to remove the lower engine splash shield.
• Keep the floor jack available to support the powertrain.

Step 2: Support the engine and transmission

• Place the hardwood support block on the floor-jack saddle.
• Center the block beneath a broad, reinforced section of the engine oil pan. Keep it away from the drain plug and pan edges.
• Raise the jack until the block just contacts the pan, then apply very light upward pressure.
• Do not lift the vehicle from the stands. The jack is supporting engine weight only.
• Watch nearby hoses while adjusting engine height.

Step 3: Remove the passenger-side engine mount

• Use a 10mm socket and plastic trim-clip removal tool to move the coolant reservoir or nearby retainers aside if they obstruct the mount. Do not disconnect coolant hoses.
• Use a 17mm socket, extensions, and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket, as fitted, to remove the mount-to-body fasteners.
• Adjust the floor jack a few millimetres at a time until the bolts slide out without force.
• Lift out the mount. Do not place fingers between the mount and body while adjusting engine height.

Step 4: Install the passenger-side engine mount

• Compare the new and old mounts. Confirm the locating tabs, studs, and bracket angle match.
• Place the new mount into position and start every fastener by hand for at least three full turns.
• Use the floor jack to align the holes. Never pull the mount into alignment by tightening one bolt.
• Use a torque wrench and the correct socket to tighten the mount-to-body fasteners to 49-64 Nm (36-47 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench and 17mm socket to tighten the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners to 59-79 Nm (44-58 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any reservoir or retainers removed for access.

Step 5: Remove the battery and intake components

• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the positive battery terminal.
• Use a 12mm socket and extension to remove the battery hold-down. Lift the battery straight out using both hands.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the intake-hose clamp.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the air-cleaner housing fasteners, then lift out the housing.
• Use a 10mm or 12mm socket to remove the battery-tray fasteners. Remove the tray to expose the transmission mount.

Step 6: Replace the driver-side transmission mount

• Move the floor jack and hardwood block beneath a reinforced, flat portion of the transmission case. Do not support a plastic cover or stamped steel pan.
• Raise the jack only until it supports the transmission.
• Use a 17mm socket, extensions, and breaker bar to remove the transmission-mount through-bolt or bracket fasteners.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket, as fitted, to remove the mount-to-body fasteners.
• Adjust jack height slightly and remove the old mount.
• Install the matching transmission mount. Start all fasteners by hand before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench and the correct socket to tighten mount-to-body fasteners to 49-64 Nm (36-47 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench and 17mm socket to tighten the mount-to-transmission bracket fasteners to 59-79 Nm (44-58 ft-lbs).
• Never use bolts to force alignment.

Step 7: Replace the front lower roll-stop mount

• Keep the powertrain lightly supported with the floor jack and hardwood block.
• Locate the front roll-stop mount between the powertrain and front crossmember.
• Use a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar to remove the center through-bolt and bracket fasteners.
• Adjust the floor jack slightly if the through-bolt binds. Remove the mount without prying against the rubber.
• Position the new mount with the same orientation as the original. Start all fasteners by hand.
• Leave the fasteners slightly loose until the rear mount has been installed.

Step 8: Replace the rear lower roll-stop mount

• Use the portable work light to locate the rear mount behind the engine near the subframe.
• Use a 17mm or 19mm socket, long extension, and breaker bar to remove the through-bolt and mounting fasteners.
• Adjust the floor jack in very small movements until the bolts can be removed by hand.
• Remove the old mount and install the new mount in the same direction.
• Start every fastener by hand. Confirm no exhaust shield, hose, or wiring harness is trapped.
• Use a torque wrench and the correct socket to tighten the rear roll-stop fasteners to 59-79 Nm (44-58 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Settle and tighten the lower mounts

• Slowly lower the floor jack until the powertrain rests naturally on the upper mounts, but keep the jack touching the support point.
• Rock the engine gently by hand. This releases tension that could cause vibration.
• Use a torque wrench and the correct socket to tighten the front roll-stop fasteners to 59-79 Nm (44-58 ft-lbs).
• Visually confirm that each mount sits flat and that no rubber section is twisted.
• A relaxed mount transmits less vibration.

Step 10: Reassemble the engine compartment

• Use a 10mm or 12mm socket to install the battery tray. Tighten its fasteners securely without overtightening the sheet-metal threads.
• Use a 10mm socket to install the air-cleaner housing.
• Reconnect the intake hose and use a flat-blade screwdriver to tighten its clamp.
• Lower the battery into the tray. Use a 12mm socket to reinstall the hold-down.
• Connect the positive battery terminal first, then the negative terminal. Use a 10mm socket to tighten both terminal nuts to 5-6 Nm (44-53 in-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the vehicle

• Use a 10mm socket and plastic trim-clip removal tool to reinstall the lower splash shield and clips.
• Use the floor jack to raise your Forte slightly and remove both jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle fully, remove the floor jack, and remove the rear wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Before starting, inspect the engine compartment for loose tools, disconnected wiring, or hoses pulled tight.
• ✅ Start the engine with the transmission in Park or Neutral. Observe the engine at idle without reaching near belts or fans.
• ✅ Switch the air conditioning on and off. A slight vibration is normal, but hard knocking or severe shaking means a mount may be misaligned or loose.
• ✅ With the brake firmly applied, shift slowly through Reverse, Neutral, and Drive on an automatic transmission. Excessive movement or clunking requires reinspection.
• ✅ On a manual transmission, apply light clutch load only during the road test. Do not perform this check while standing in front of the vehicle.
• ✅ Take a short, low-speed road test. Listen during acceleration, braking, and gear changes.
• ✅ Reinspect every mount visually after the test. Verify the battery terminals and intake hose remain secure.
• ✅ Reset the clock and saved radio settings if battery disconnection cleared them. Battery registration or coding is not required.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹35,000-₹65,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹16,000-₹35,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹19,000-₹30,000 by doing it yourself!

Independent labor rates around Sonīpat vary, and imported Kia mount pricing can differ significantly. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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