🔧 Pathfinder - Engine Mount Replacement

This procedure covers replacement of the right engine mount, left CVT mount, front torque rod, and rear torque rod. A torque rod is a lower mount that controls forward-and-back engine movement.

Assumption: Your Pathfinder retains its factory mounting hardware; AWD models have tighter access around the rear torque rod.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 5-8 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the powertrain before loosening any mount. An unsupported engine can shift suddenly and cause serious injury.
• ⚠️ Never place any part of your body beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Lift the engine only by the approved lifting points or beneath the oil pan with a broad wood block. Never place a bare jack directly against the aluminum oil pan.
• ⚠️ Replace and tighten only one mount at a time. Removing several mounts can allow the engine and CVT to move out of position.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust system cool completely before working near the rear torque rod.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing the battery tray or working around the upper mounts.
• ⚠️ Do not start your Pathfinder while the engine or CVT is supported by a jack.
• ⚠️ Mount fastener specifications can vary by fastener location. Match every removed bolt to its original position.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 3-ton low-profile floor jack
• 3-ton jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• Engine support bar rated 1,000 lb minimum (specialty)
• 18-inch hardwood block
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-200 Nm
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• 6-inch socket extension
• 12-inch socket extension
• Universal socket joint
• Flat-blade trim tool
• Small flat-blade screwdriver
• Paint marker
• Work light rated for automotive use
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mounting insulator - Qty: 1
• Left CVT mounting insulator - Qty: 1
• Front engine torque rod - Qty: 1
• Rear engine torque rod - Qty: 1
• Self-locking engine-mount nuts - Qty: As removed
• Single-use engine-mount bolts - Qty: As specified with replacement mounts

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📋 Before You Begin

• 📋 Park your Pathfinder on firm, level ground. Select Park and apply the parking brake.
• 📋 Open the hood, switch the ignition off, and keep the intelligent key at least 10 feet away.
• 📋 Allow the engine and exhaust to cool completely.
• 📋 Photograph every mount and bracket before removal. Mark each bolt location with a paint marker.
• 📋 Loosen the negative battery-terminal nut with a 10mm socket. Disconnect and isolate the cable for at least three minutes.
• 📋 If using an engine support bar, attach it only to the factory engine lifting eyes. An engine support bar spans the fenders and holds the engine from above.
• 📋 If you cannot safely support the engine from above, replace only mounts reachable while supporting the powertrain from below with a floor jack and hardwood block.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the vehicle

• Place the wheel chocks firmly behind both rear tires.
• Use the 3-ton floor jack at the front center jacking point, then place the 3-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle onto the stands and gently push the body to confirm it is stable.
• Use a 10mm socket and flat-blade trim tool to remove the lower engine splash shield fasteners.

Step 2: Inspect and identify the failed mounts

• Use the work light to inspect each rubber insulator for splitting, separation, fluid leakage, or metal-to-metal contact.
• Use the paint marker to trace each mount and bracket position before loosening anything.
• Check for exhaust, hose, wiring, or axle contact that could be mistaken for a failed mount.
• Replace one mount before loosening the next.

Step 3: Support the engine and CVT

• Install the engine support bar across the reinforced body edges and connect it to the factory lifting eyes.
• Take up slack with the engine support bar only until it supports the engine. Do not lift the vehicle body.
• Alternatively, center the hardwood block on the 3-ton floor jack beneath the oil pan and apply only light upward pressure.
• Use the work light to watch nearby hoses, wiring, and exhaust parts while changing engine height.

Step 4: Replace the right engine mount

• Use a 10mm socket and small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the air-intake duct fasteners and release its clamps.
• Remove the duct and move attached hoses aside without stretching them.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket, as fitted, with the 6-inch extension to loosen the right mount-to-body fasteners.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket, as fitted, to remove the mount-to-engine-bracket fastener.
• Adjust the engine support bar or floor jack only a few millimeters until the fasteners slide out without binding.
• Remove the mount and compare its locating tabs and bolt spacing with the replacement part.
• Set the replacement mount into its original paint-marked position. Install every fastener by hand before tightening.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten the right mounting-insulator fasteners to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs), unless the replacement fastener instructions specify otherwise.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the intake duct fasteners until snug; do not crush the plastic.

Step 5: Replace the left CVT mount

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the battery-terminal clamps and battery hold-down fasteners.
• Lift the battery straight out while wearing mechanic gloves. Keep it upright.
• Use a 10mm and 12mm socket with the 6-inch extension to remove the battery tray and attached harness retainers.
• Support the CVT with the floor jack and hardwood block. Apply only enough pressure to carry its weight.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket, as fitted, with the extensions to remove the left mount-to-body fasteners.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket, as fitted, to remove the left mount-to-CVT bracket fastener.
• Adjust the jack slightly until the old mount lifts out without prying against the CVT case.
• Position the replacement mount using the original locating tabs and paint marks. Start every fastener by hand.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten the left mounting-insulator fasteners to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs), unless the replacement fastener instructions specify otherwise.
• Use a 10mm and 12mm socket to reinstall the battery tray and harness retainers securely.
• Leave the battery disconnected until all mounts are installed.

Step 6: Replace the front torque rod

• Confirm the engine remains supported by the engine support bar or floor jack and hardwood block.
• Use a 17mm or 18mm socket, as fitted, with the breaker bar to loosen the front torque-rod through-bolts.
• Adjust engine height slightly if either bolt binds. Never drive a bolt out while the mount is heavily loaded.
• Remove the old torque rod and install the replacement in the same direction.
• Insert both bolts by hand and lower the powertrain to its natural resting position before final tightening.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten both front torque-rod fasteners to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the rear torque rod

• Use the work light to locate the rear torque rod between the powertrain and rear crossmember.
• On AWD models, use the universal socket joint and 12-inch extension to work around the transfer assembly and exhaust. Do not pry against either component.
• Use a 17mm or 18mm socket, as fitted, with the breaker bar to loosen the rear torque-rod fasteners.
• Adjust the engine support slightly until the bolts can be removed by hand.
• Match the replacement rod's orientation to the original and install both bolts finger-tight.
• Return the engine to its neutral resting position.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten both rear torque-rod fasteners to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• If access requires loosening the front suspension member or exhaust, stop and use the Nissan service procedure; those components require additional support and alignment controls.

Step 8: Settle the powertrain and verify clearances

• Slowly release the engine support bar or lower the floor jack while watching all four mounts with the work light.
• Confirm every locating tab is seated and no wiring, hose, heat shield, or exhaust component is trapped.
• Use the torque wrench to recheck every accessible mount fastener at its specified torque.
• Use the paint marker to place a witness mark across each tightened fastener and bracket.

Step 9: Reassemble the vehicle

• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the battery hold-down and tighten it until the battery cannot move. Do not overtighten the battery case.
• Connect the positive battery terminal first, followed by the negative terminal.
• Use the 10mm socket to tighten each terminal to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs).
• Use the flat-blade trim tool and 10mm socket to reinstall the lower splash shield.
• Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise the vehicle, remove the jack stands, and lower your Pathfinder fully.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ With the hood open, hold the brake firmly and start the engine. Listen for knocking and watch for excessive engine movement.
• ✅ Keep the brake applied and shift slowly through Reverse, Neutral, and Drive. Pause for three seconds in each position.
• ✅ Stop immediately if the engine jumps sharply, a mount shifts, or metal contacts the body.
• ✅ Reset the clock and automatic window function if they were lost during battery disconnection.
• ✅ Road-test at low speed first. Check for vibration during idle, acceleration, deceleration, and reverse engagement.
• ✅ Reinspect all mounts and paint marks after 25-50 miles. No fastener should have moved.
• ✅ If vibration is worse, check for a preloaded mount, trapped exhaust component, or mount installed in the wrong orientation.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹70,000-₹145,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹28,000-₹75,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹42,000-₹70,000 by doing it yourself!

Labor around Sonīpat varies by workshop and imported-parts availability. This repair takes a shop approximately 5-8 hours.

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