🔧 Tucson - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Tucson uses four main supports: the right-side engine mount, left-side transmission mount, front roll stopper, and rear roll stopper. Replace only one mount at a time while supporting the powertrain; removing several mounts together can let the engine shift and damage hoses, wiring, or the exhaust.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours for all four

Assumption: The instructions cover the complete four-mount set; rear-mount access varies slightly with drivetrain equipment.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount.
• ⚠️ Place a wood block between the jack and oil pan. Never lift directly against the aluminum pan.
• ⚠️ Raise the engine only enough to remove mount tension. Excess movement can damage hoses, wiring, axles, and exhaust parts.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount completely before loosening another.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing the battery tray or transmission mount.
• ⚠️ Allow the engine and exhaust system to cool completely.
• ⚠️ If the rear mount is obstructed by AWD or exhaust equipment, stop rather than forcing parts aside.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar
• 6-inch socket extension
• 12-inch socket extension
• 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim-clip removal tool
• Engine support bar rated 1,000-lb minimum
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Hardwood block approximately 8-by-8 inches
• Paint marker
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
• Rear roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
• Replacement mount fasteners specified as single-use - Qty: As required

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tucson on level, solid ground. Shift to Park and apply the parking brake.
• Chock both rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Open the hood and let the powertrain cool.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Move the cable where it cannot touch the post.
• Use a paint marker to outline each mount and bracket before removal. This provides an alignment reference.
• An engine support bar spans the upper body rails and holds the engine from above. Install it according to its instructions and attach it only to the factory engine lifting eye.
• As backup support, position a floor jack and hardwood block beneath a strong, flat section of the oil pan. Apply light pressure only; do not lift the vehicle by the oil pan.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Upper Covers and Intake Duct

• Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Pull the plastic engine cover upward by hand to release its rubber retainers.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the intake-hose clamp.
• Use a 10mm socket and trim-clip removal tool to release the air duct and air-cleaner fasteners.
• Remove only the ducting needed to expose the right-side engine mount.

Step 2: Support the Powertrain

• Use the engine support bar to take up the engine’s weight without raising it.
• Position the floor jack and hardwood block beneath the oil pan as secondary support.
• Watch the radiator hoses, wiring, fuel lines, axles, and exhaust while adjusting support.
• Stop lifting as soon as mount tension disappears.

Step 3: Replace the Right-Side Engine Mount

• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-body and mount-to-bracket fasteners.
• Adjust the engine support bar slightly until the bolts slide freely. Do not pry the engine sideways.
• Remove the fasteners with the 17mm socket, then lift out the mount.
• Compare the new mount’s stud positions and orientation with the old mount.
• Set the new mount into place. Install every fastener by hand before tightening anything.
• Use the torque wrench and 17mm socket to tighten the engine-side bracket fasteners to 59-79 Nm (44-58 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench and 17mm socket to tighten the main mount nut to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).
• Do not fully remove the engine support yet.

Step 4: Expose the Left-Side Transmission Mount

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery hold-down and battery cable fasteners.
• Lift the battery straight out with both hands and keep it upright.
• Use a 10mm and 12mm socket to remove the battery tray and related wiring retainers.
• Use the engine support bar to hold the transmission side of the powertrain level.

Step 5: Replace the Left-Side Transmission Mount

• Mark the original bracket position with the paint marker.
• Use a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar to loosen the mount and bracket fasteners.
• Adjust the engine support bar slightly until the fasteners can be removed without binding.
• Remove the old mount and compare its orientation with the replacement.
• Install all fasteners by hand and align the bracket with the paint marks.
• Use the torque wrench and 17mm socket to tighten the transmission-side mount bolts to 49-64 Nm (36-47 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench and 17mm socket to tighten the main mount nut to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Raise and Secure the Front of the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack at the front-center lifting point to raise your Tucson.
• Place jack stands beneath the reinforced left and right support points.
• Lower the vehicle onto the stands and gently rock it to verify stability.
• Keep the engine support bar installed. Reposition the floor jack and hardwood block beneath the oil pan as light backup support.
• Use a 10mm socket and trim-clip removal tool to remove the lower splash shield.

Step 7: Replace the Front Roll Stopper

• The roll stopper is the lower mount that limits forward-and-rearward engine movement.
• Use a 17mm or 19mm socket and breaker bar to remove the through-bolt and bracket fasteners.
• Adjust the floor jack by only a few millimetres if the through-bolt binds.
• Remove the old stopper and install the new one in the same direction.
• Start every fastener by hand.
• Use the torque wrench with the matching socket to tighten the bracket fasteners to 59-79 Nm (44-58 ft-lbs).
• Leave the through-bolt snug until all four mounts are installed.

Step 8: Replace the Rear Roll Stopper

• Locate the rear stopper between the back of the powertrain and the front subframe.
• Use a 17mm or 19mm socket, 12-inch extension, and breaker bar to loosen its through-bolt and bracket fasteners.
• If an exhaust pipe or AWD driveline component blocks straight access, do not bend or pry it. This version requires additional drivetrain-specific disassembly best handled with service information and a lift.
• When access is clear, adjust the floor jack slightly so the through-bolt slides out without force.
• Install the replacement in the same orientation and start all fasteners by hand.
• Use the torque wrench with the matching socket to tighten the bracket fasteners to 59-79 Nm (44-58 ft-lbs).
• Leave the through-bolt snug until the powertrain is settled.

Step 9: Settle and Tighten the Lower Mounts

• Slowly relax the floor jack and engine support bar until the engine rests naturally on all four mounts.
• Check that no mount is twisted and that the paint alignment marks remain close.
• Use the torque wrench and correct 17mm or 19mm socket to tighten both roll-stopper through-bolts to 108-128 Nm (80-94 ft-lbs).
• Recheck the upper mount fasteners with the torque wrench.

Step 10: Reassemble the Vehicle

• Use a 10mm socket and trim-clip removal tool to reinstall the lower splash shield.
• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it completely.
• Remove the engine support bar and backup jack.
• Use a 10mm and 12mm socket to reinstall the battery tray.
• Reinstall the battery and use a 10mm socket to secure its hold-down.
• Use a 10mm socket to connect the positive cable first if it was removed, then connect the negative cable.
• Use the flat-blade screwdriver, 10mm socket, and trim-clip removal tool to reinstall the intake duct and air cleaner.
• Press the engine cover into its rubber retainers by hand.

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✅ After Repair

• Inspect the engine bay and underbody for tools, loose wiring, trapped hoses, or uninstalled fasteners.
• Start the engine while holding the brake. Watch for excessive movement or metal contact.
• With the brake firmly applied, shift slowly through Reverse, Neutral, and Drive. A helper should observe from beside the vehicle, never in front of or beneath it.
• Shut the engine off immediately if you hear knocking, feel severe vibration, or see a mount shifting.
• Take a short, low-speed test drive. Avoid hard acceleration until the installation is verified.
• Reinspect all visible mounts and battery connections after the test drive.
• The clock and saved audio settings may need to be restored after battery disconnection.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹45,000-₹85,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹20,000-₹45,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹25,000-₹40,000 by doing it yourself!

Labor rates around Panipat vary. Replacing all four mounts generally takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours, with additional time possible for restricted rear-mount access.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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